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Easter Island: Mysterious Place that Was Worth the Miles and Time to Get There

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This is the final installment  in my series of posts on our recent trip to South America. See my previous  posts Back from our family trip to Peru and Easter island: Bumpy start, awesome memories  , Flying in LATAM economy to South America and Easter Island , Layovers in airport-adjacent hotels: luxury attainable via points , Ideal base for Visiting Machu Picchu: Hotel Points vs. Paying Cash , Machu Picchu: Expensive, complicated, worth it and Our scenic drive through Sacred Valley of the Incas, plus overnight in Cusco

When I first brought up the idea of adding Easter island (local name Rapa Nui) as a detour from Peru, my husband just rolled his eyes. But, even though he thought it was an insane plan, he said we should do it anyway. He could tell how excited I was and didn’t want to spoil it.

And make no mistake about it, it was definitely a detour. It’s sort of like someone visiting Florida and saying they might as well go to Belgium while they are at it, with an overnight in NYC. Incidentally, we flew to Brussels last year, and when it comes to logistics and distance, going to Easter island was very similar.A large stone Moai statue stands on a grassy platform with a stone base. The statue has a prominent head and facial features, typical of the Moai statues found on Easter Island. The sky is clear and blue in the background.

What makes Easter Island so special

At first glance, it’s hard to justify this kind of trek and expense. After all, it’s a tiny island of only 8,000 inhabitants. It’s definitely not as stunning  as other Polynesian spots we have visited. Moorea, Bora Bora and Kauai are far more rugged and beautiful. There isn’t any impressive architecture to speak of. It’s primarily a village with a few streets and not much else. Well, except for Moai statues, of course, but you have to drive outside of the main town to see those.

A street scene in a small town with a clear blue sky. The foreground shows a brick-paved sidewalk and road. On the left, there is a building with a yellow and green facade. On the right, there are several parked vehicles, including a white truck. Trees and palm trees are visible, and there are mountains in the background. The scene is well-lit with sunlight.

For me personally, the main appeal of Easter island was actually its remoteness. Plus, I really wanted to complete my Polynesian Triangle, and that was the only piece of the puzzle missing. Of course, now my daughter wants to go to Hawaii, which would complete her Polynesian Triangle.

When we landed at the airport (originally built by NASA as an emergency shuttle landing spot), we saw a bunch of local families huddled together behind the fence, watching in excitement. There was also a trio greeting passengers  with traditional Rapa Nui music. A group of three musicians is performing indoors. They are wearing matching outfits with feathered headdresses. One musician is playing a guitar, another is playing a small stringed instrument, and the third is playing a drum. The setting features wooden architecture with a thatched roof and carved wooden pillars. A person is walking by in the background carrying an orange bag.

Our AirBnB owner (who spoke no English)  was smiling ear to ear when we approached him after spotting our name on the sign. He even brought a local young lady with him who served as a translator. He then put us in a truck and threw our suitcases in the back, where she climbed as well. My daughter commented on the fresh flower leis we were greeted with, and the lady said she just made them for us that morning.

Two people are sitting in a car wearing red flower leis. The person in the foreground is smiling widely, while the person in the background has a more neutral expression. The car window shows a view of trees and other vehicles outside.

As an aside, we later met her husband Kevin. When I inquired as to how he got his very western name, he said that his dad used to be a park ranger. In the nineties he was assigned to show Kevin Costner around the island when the actor  was working on the film called Rapa Nui. At the time, the ranger’s wife was pregnant. You can guess how Kevin got his name.

Anyway,  right of the bat, we experienced famous Polynesian hospitality and the trip was off to a great start. Of course, you can probably get that on other islands in the South Pacific that are closer to US, no need to fly to Easter island. But none have what Rapa Nui has to offer, namely Moai statues. It’s also the only island in the South Pacific that has its own written language (called Rongorongo), though the knowledge of it has sadly been lost.

In fact, the whole history of this place is a sad tale of colonialism that played out similarly  in other parts of the world. The prevailing theory among the scientists used to be that Rapa Nui people caused deforestation of the island  and that’s how their advanced civilization fell. That’s what I remember reading as a child in the Soviet Union. This theory has now been largely debunked. There was no collapse, well,  not until Easter island was “discovered” by Europeans. It’s estimated that  diseases to which Rapa Nui had no immunity  killed approximately 90% of island inhabitants.

By the end of 19th century, only 111 people remained. Out of that group, 35 had children, and virtually all 3,500 indigenous people currently residing on Easter island can trace their heritage to those few survivors. So, it’s a miracle that we get to witness Rapa Nui culture at all. As far as Moai statues go, when Europeans asked the locals how they used to be transported, the answer was “they walked.”  According to records, the Dutch thought Rapa Nui people were mocking them, but turns out, they were likely giving them an honest answer. See this video for demonstration of this particular theory A large stone Moai statue stands on a grassy hillside under a clear blue sky. The sun is shining brightly in the top left corner, casting light and shadows on the landscape.

There is so much we still don’t know about Rapa Nui, like whether they ever made a voyage to South America. I honestly believe that they did, and there are a few reasons for that. First and foremost, they tested the bones of few  Rapa Nui skeletons taken to UK in the 19th century and found they had 10% South American DNA. It’s not a definitive proof, but still. Then there is the presence of sweet potato on the island when Europeans arrived.

Last but not least, the mortar technique used to build this wall on Easter island  is almost identical to the one used in Cusco. Too many coincidences, if you ask me.

The image shows a section of a stone wall made of large, rectangular blocks on a grassy field. The sky is blue with some clouds. There is a small sign in front of the wall that reads "No tocar, do not touch." The landscape is open and expansive, with more stones visible in the background.

Our rental house in Hanga Roa

Since we didn’t really want to rent a car, staying in the main town of Hanga Roa made the most sense. If my husband and I were traveling without kids, we would probably splurge on Nayara Hangaroa, which was running  at $400 per night during low season. It looks like a beautiful place, and we loved our stay at Nayara Tented Camp, its sister property in Costa Rica. Alas, paying $800 per night for two rooms was out of the question. I actually called the resort to see if we can pay for breakfast on-property, but was told it’s reserved for guests only. Fair enough.

Instead, I rented this cute local house and have no complaints. At $180 per night it was an absolute steal, though it looks like rates are now closer to $300.The image shows the entrance to a rustic building with a thatched roof. There are two suitcases and a pair of shoes on a mat in front of the door. The entrance is partially covered by a curtain made of hanging beads. There are plants and trees around the entrance, adding to the natural setting. What drew me to it is the fact that it had two separate bedrooms with A/C, as well as two bathrooms.The image shows a small room with a wooden bunk bed. The top bunk has a pair of pants draped over the side, and both bunks are made with white and gray bedding. There is a round woven rug on the floor, and a couple of bags are placed nearby. The floor appears to be tiled, and there is a small chest of drawers next to the bed.

The image shows a bedroom with a bed in the foreground. The bed is covered with a white quilt and has several pillows with geometric patterns in shades of green and white. Above the bed, there is a large painting depicting a circular arrangement of blue fish. The room has a wooden door and white walls with a blue trim near the ceiling.One of the bathrooms was partially open to outside, and my daughter absolutely loved hanging out there. She said it felt like a spa.

This image shows a bathroom with a rustic and natural design. The walls are covered with stone-patterned tiles. There is a wooden vanity with a stone sink and a rolled-up towel on it. A small plant in a decorative pot is also on the vanity. The shower area is separated by a white, ruffled shower curtain. The floor has pebble-like tiles, and there is a gray and white striped rug. A bamboo ladder and some large stones are visible near the shower area, along with a leafy plant.

There was no living room and the kitchen was tiny.

A narrow kitchen hallway with a tiled floor. On the left, there is a blue door and a wall with a painting of oranges. On the right, a refrigerator is visible with plants on top. At the end of the hallway, there is a kitchen area with white cabinets, a microwave, and various kitchen items. A ceiling light hangs above, illuminating the space.

You can tell the house was designed to enjoy the great outdoors. The image shows a cozy outdoor seating area with a rustic wooden bench and table. The bench is adorned with colorful cushions in orange and yellow. A large plant with broad green leaves is in the foreground, and there are more plants in the background, creating a lush, natural atmosphere. A decorative piece made of driftwood hangs from the ceiling, and a mirror with a wooden frame is mounted on the wall. The floor is tiled, and a beaded curtain hangs on the right side.

We  were  encouraged  to  pick avocado  and  papaya  fruit  off  the  trees  in  the  garden.

A wooden outdoor seating area with a table and benches is shown. The table has a decorative wooden sculpture in the center and is shaded by a large yellow umbrella. The area is surrounded by greenery, including ferns and other plants, and is situated on a wooden deck next to a building with a window.

 

A colorful striped hammock is hanging in a small outdoor area with a white brick wall. There are potted plants and greenery around the hammock. On the left, there are decorative hanging shells, and on the right, a wooden stump is visible. The ground is a mix of grass and sand.

There was no washing machine, but a drying rack was provided. Alternatively, you can drop off your clothes to the only laundry place in town, located nearby ($15 per small load). Tell Leo I said hi.

All-in-all, this rental house met our needs and then some. I’m glad I didn’t spend more money on lodging than absolutely necessary. If you go during low season (May-September), A/C is probably not essential at night, but it’s nice to have it in case of a heat wave.

There are many lodging options for all budgets, and I recommend focusing on Booking.com (our affiliate link). Or as Idris Elba refers to it, Booking.yeah

What we did during our stay 

1) See the Moai statues (duh!)

In order to do that, you have to hire a guide, but it’s not really that much of a burden. Yes, it costs extra compared to just buying a  Rapa Nui National Park ticket yourself ($70 per person). But the guide or tour company usually provides a vehicle, so you are saving money on a car rental.

I booked two half-day tours on separate days with two different companies. While it worked out fine, I strongly recommend hiring a private guide unless you are fluent in Spanish. English speakers basically get a “cliff notes” version on everything. It makes sense, of course, but you end up wasting a lot of time waiting around.

We did get a fairly good deal on both tours, so I’m not really complaining. One worked out to be $35 per person after I got 40% cashback via Capital One shopping portal. Still, time is money, and I recommend  you don’t cheap out on something that important.

But overall, we had a great time and hit all the important sights. Both guides were friendly, spoke decent English and one even serenaded us on ukulele.A person wearing a floral shirt and cap is playing a ukulele in an open grassy field. There are several vehicles parked along a stone wall in the background, with rolling hills and a partly cloudy sky.

 

Here are a few photos of my favorite spots we visited:

The image shows a landscape on Easter Island with several Moai statues. The statues are large, carved stone figures with distinct facial features, positioned on grassy hills. A dirt path winds through the scene, and a few people are visible in the background, taking photos and walking. The sky is clear and blue with a few clouds.

Rano Raraku (Moai quarry)A rock face with a rough, textured surface, featuring patches of lichen and moss. The rock has a natural overhang and is surrounded by a small area of green grass at the base. The overall appearance is rugged and weathered.

Giant unfinished Moai The image shows a row of large stone statues, known as moai, on a grassy landscape with a rocky coastline in the background. The sky is partly cloudy, and the ocean is visible to the right. The scene is likely from Easter Island.

Ahu Tongariki

The image shows a large volcanic crater filled with patches of water and vegetation. The crater is surrounded by steep rocky walls, and there is a grassy area with rocks in the foreground. The sky is partly cloudy, and the ocean is visible in the background.

Rano Kau crater

A person is standing on a grassy cliff overlooking the ocean. They have a plaid shirt tied around their waist and are facing away from the camera. In the distance, there is a small rocky island surrounded by the sea. The sky is partly cloudy, and there is a metal railing along the edge of the cliff.

My son taking photos of the  island used for Birdman competition during ancient timesA person is walking along a grassy hilltop path with a scenic view of the ocean and coastline in the background. The sky is partly cloudy, and the sun is shining brightly, casting light over the landscape. In the distance, there are hills and a few scattered buildings.

One of the many hikes we did during our tours

2) Attend traditional Rapa Nui dance

We booked a performance by Kari Kari, the original dance company on Easter island that is regarded to have top talent. I can’t vouch for that, as I didn’t attend other shows, but can confirm that dancers were impressive. I didn’t know it was possible to move your hips like that. They also looked like they were having a lot of fun and not just going through the motions.

The image shows an indoor stage with a large projection screen displaying information about "Ballet Cultural Kari Kari" from Rapa Nui. The stage has a red floor and is bordered by a woven material. On the right side, there is a mural of a woman's face with traditional face paint. The background includes decorative floral and swirl patterns. In the foreground, a person is seated, partially visible, holding a phone.

Expect the usual skimpy Polynesian clothes, especially on guys.

A group of dancers is performing on stage, wearing traditional Polynesian costumes. The women are dressed in feathered skirts and headdresses, while the men have similar attire with decorative body paint. The stage is lit with colorful lights, and the audience is visible in the foreground. The setting appears to be a cultural or traditional dance performance.

The performance itself lasts about an hour, but there are fillers, and occasionally, dancers bring out audience members to join them on stage.

A group of people is on stage participating in a cultural performance. Some are wearing traditional Polynesian attire, including grass skirts and headpieces made of leaves. A woman in the center is holding hands with a performer and smiling. The stage is lit with colorful lights, and there are musical instruments and decorations in the background. Audience members are visible in the foreground, with a drink placed on the edge of the stage.

It was a lot of fun and I would absolutely recommend it. However, my husband and son got bored after about 20 minutes or so (the dance moves tend to be repetitive). My daughter loved it and I liked it a lot. Thumbs up.

3) Walking  around the island and enjoying local food

Easter island is the kind of place that forces you to slow down and just breathe. One of my favorite memories is just watching the sunset with my daughter.  Sure, I’ve seen my fair share of beautiful sunsets,  but  none  of  them were on  the most remote spot on earth. A ship is silhouetted against a vibrant sunset over the ocean. The sky is filled with scattered clouds, illuminated in shades of orange and yellow by the setting sun. The water reflects the warm colors of the sky, creating a serene and picturesque scene.

We also liked  observing local kids who came out to surf.

The image shows a group of people in the ocean, possibly swimming or floating together. The water is slightly choppy, and there is a small boat or raft in the distance. The sky is overcast with some light breaking through the clouds.

Eating out while enjoying  this view was definitely a treat:

A seaside restaurant with empty tables and chairs on a wooden deck. The sun is setting over the ocean, creating a shimmering reflection on the water. The sky is partly cloudy, and the scene is framed by the restaurant's roof and support beams.

Naturally, we had a lot of seafood dishes during our four nights on the island.

A black plate with neatly arranged slices of raw fish, likely tuna, garnished with small vegetable accents like pickled onions, carrot curls, and herbs. There are two small bowls on the plate, one containing soy sauce and the other a sauce topped with sesame seeds. The plate is set on a textured placemat on a wooden table.A black bowl containing a dish with sliced seared tuna topped with sesame seeds, a scoop of guacamole, and a quinoa salad with corn and red onions. A fork is placed inside the bowl. In the background, there are condiments and a glass of water with a lemon slice.

My husband wanted to have one nice breakfast, but due to it being a low season, all restaurants nearby only opened for lunch. I contacted one via WhatsApp, and the owner offered to make breakfast just for my family for $100 total. Not cheap, but she basically opened the restaurant for us as a private dining experience. She made us eggs, pancakes and brought delicious coffee plus fresh juice. It was a nice treat, and something my husband really appreciated. I figured by keeping the lodging costs down, we could justify a few splurges like that.

A dining table is set for a meal in a cozy, wooden room with large windows showing greenery outside. The table is decorated with colorful placemats and set with plates, cutlery, and crystal glasses. There are various dishes including rolled cold cuts, cheese, fruit, and small bowls of condiments. A vase with flowers is placed in the center. A person is standing near the window adjusting their jacket.

Keep in mind that there are a lot of dogs wondering the island, though all of them seemed to be  friendly. The restaurants are all open-air and dogs are allowed to roam the premises and will occasionally sit by your table waiting for a snack. Things on Easter island are generally very low-key and if you are a rigid person, you may have a hard time enjoying yourself.

Final thoughts 

Well, folks, this will be the final post on our family adventures in Peru and Easter island. If you have any questions, ask away. One thing I hope to accomplish is to encourage you not to limit yourself only to places accessible via hotel points. There isn’t anything wrong with using points, of course, and I try to do that when it makes logical sense. But so much of the world doesn’t have Hyatts, Marriotts etc. Or maybe you can use Hyatt points (like on Explora property in Easter island), but it costs a fortune.

It’s OK to pay cash now and again to visit the places you’ve been dreaming of. If it’s that critical to travel for “free”, use Capital One points to offset the cost at 1 cent apiece. I’ve done it, and wasn’t struck by lightning. A great option that is often overlooked is Chase Aeroplan credit card that allows you to offset travel expenses at 1.25 cents apiece. You get a 10% bonus on mileage transfers from Chase, making it an even better deal.

You get the idea. Use the points to do the stuff you want to do, not what others consider an acceptable deal. Visiting Peru and Easter island has been a dream of mine for so long, and now I’ve done it. I didn’t get 10 cents per mile on my airline tickets, and I couldn’t care less.

 

Author: Leana

Leana is the founder of Miles For Family. She enjoys beach vacations and visiting her family in Europe. Originally from Belarus, Leana resides in central Florida with her husband and two children.

Comments

  1. Justyna says

    Awesome! I appreciate the details and down to earth approach. Sounds like you had an amazing trip! Always looking forward to reading about your next adventures.

    Reply

  2. Russ says

    This has been a long-time dream of mine, alas, it probably will never happen, but I enjoyed your trip report. So many amazing destinations on this planet.

    Reply

  3. Leana says

    @Audrey Thanks! It’s always a challenge for me to settle on the itinerary that will be acceptable to the whole family. My daughter really wanted to visit lake Titicaca in Peru, and we just didn’t have the time. I told her we would do it next time. It’s easier for us to visit Peru from Florida compared to Easter island. I seriously doubt I’ll ever get back to the latter, but who knows!

    Reply

  5. Leana says

    @Aleks That’s the goal! Don’t get me wrong, it does get stressful at times traveling as a family. Even though the kids are almost adults, they still bicker like crazy (driving us crazy). But I wouldn’t change a thing.

    Reply

  6. Aleks says

    Overall you planned a nice trip. The main thing is your family enjoyed it and you’ll keep great memories traveling together. That’s priceless!

    Reply

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