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Our Scenic Drive through Sacred Valley of the Incas, plus Overnight in Cusco

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This is the sixth installment  in my series of posts on our recent trip to South America. See my previous  posts Back from our family trip to Peru and Easter island: Bumpy start, awesome memories  , Flying in LATAM economy to South America and Easter Island , Layovers in airport-adjacent hotels: luxury attainable via points , Ideal base for Visiting Machu Picchu: Hotel Points vs. Paying Cash and Machu Picchu: Expensive, complicated, worth it

Since our flight from Cusco to Santiago was scheduled to leave at 9 AM, we really had no choice but to overnight in the city. Sure, we could have paid for transfer from Sacred Valley in the middle of the night, but that’s not something I felt comfortable doing. Besides, Cusco is a very interesting place that is often compared to Rome. And how silly would it be to go all the way to Italy and not stay in Rome, right?

Truth be told, I wish I could have  rearranged my trip so we would have two nights in Cusco instead of one. But due to having an entry to Machu Picchu on a specific day (that could not be changed), it simply wasn’t possible.

As a reminder, due to logistical nightmare of dealing with the opening of a new terminal in Lima, I changed our flight to Peru just a few weeks before the trip, which gave us two extra nights. So, we simply extended our stay in Ollantaytambo. Anyway, I was determined to make the most of our short time in Cusco, and that also included the drive through the Sacred Valley.

I’ve reached out to Taxidatum.com and booked a van transfer with a stop at Salt Mines of Maras  for a total of $65. Originally we planned to make a few more stops, but it would give us almost no time in Cusco. So, I had to be selective. Our driver arrived to our lodge at 10 AM and off we went.

The drive itself is very scenic. Here are just a few photos:

A scenic view of a snow-capped mountain under a partly cloudy sky. The foreground features a grassy area with small trees and shrubs. The mountain has rugged peaks and patches of snow, with a clear blue sky above.

A scenic landscape featuring a range of mountains with snow-capped peaks under a partly cloudy sky. In the foreground, there are rolling hills with patches of grass and vegetation. The overall atmosphere is serene and natural.

There are Inca ruins scattered all throughout the valley:

The image shows a hillside with terraced stone structures, likely agricultural terraces. In the foreground, there is a market stall with colorful textiles and crafts on display. A sign in Spanish reads "REDUCE REUSA RECICLA," which translates to "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle." The sky is overcast, and the landscape is covered with patches of grass and vegetation.

After driving for about an hour, we reached the salt mines. This is a fascinating place that actually predates the Incas. All the individual salt ponds are owned by local families, and they are passed on as inheritance. You can only observe them from above, though perhaps there are tours that allow direct access.

The image shows a vast landscape of terraced salt evaporation ponds, known as salt pans, situated on a hillside. The pans are filled with water in various shades of white and brown, creating a patchwork effect. In the foreground, a group of people are standing along a wooden railing, observing the scene. The background features rugged mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

There is a small market where locals sell various souvenirs. The prices are very good, a lot cheaper than what you will find near Machu Picchu. I don’t like shopping, but my family is into it big time. This was a relatively short stop, so after about an hour, we were all ready go. I absolutely recommend Maras salt mines if you are in the area. The price to enter was $8 per person if I remember correctly. Naturally, you have to use local currency to pay.

Speaking of, credit card acceptance in Peru is spotty, though better than I expected. Be aware, ATM fees are high, and you can usually only get an equivalent of about $110 at a time with $8 fee. I brought my SoFi card that still reimburses ATM fees, but it kept getting locked up due to fraud alerts. Seriously, this card is such a pain, as I had the same issue in Europe last year.

Fortunately, I brought a backup card from my local bank, though had to eat $8 fee a few times. But beggars can’t be choosers. So, make sure you have at least two ATM cards, if not three. And bring US dollars just in case.

Our short time in Cusco

I can certainly see why Cusco is compared to Rome. This was the center of Inca empire, and there are layers upon layers of history around every corner.

All roads lead to Cusco, pun intended.

A narrow cobblestone street descends between whitewashed buildings with wooden balconies and tiled roofs. The street is lined with stone walls and leads to a view of a cityscape nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains. The sky is bright blue with scattered clouds.

A cobblestone street in a historic area with people walking and a few cars. On the left, there are trees and a white building with arched windows. In the background, a large stone church with a bell tower is visible. The sky is partly cloudy, and there are small vendor stalls along the street.

Even though I could have used hotel points, I chose to book a local place via cash instead, since it represented better value. Well, technically I used Hotels.com gift card previously purchased at a discount. I wanted  something in the historic center because our time in Cusco was so short.

Casa Cruz Verde boutique hotel fit the bill perfectly.  It  appears  that it used to be a convent in its previous life. The image shows a charming courtyard with a traditional building featuring wooden balconies and yellow accents. The building has arched doorways and windows with decorative railings. In the foreground, there is a garden with various plants and flowers, including roses and calla lilies. A sign is visible among the plants, and a wooden bench is placed against the building. The sky is partly cloudy.

Originally, I booked a family room with one king bed and two twins for $93 total. It would fit the whole family, but the unit looked rather small on photos.  The image shows a hotel room with a modern design. In the foreground, there is a bed with a blue and white patterned runner. A person is lying on the bed, with their legs visible, wearing light-colored pants and patterned socks. To the left, there is a small desk with a blue chair and a mini-fridge underneath. In the background, there is a glass-enclosed shower and a sink with a round mirror above it. On the right, there is a shelving unit with hangers, a kettle, cups, and other amenities. The room has wooden flooring and light-colored walls.

Check  out  the  bathroom  arrangement.  Clearly  an  afterthought

The image shows a small bathroom with a white toilet. The toilet seat is open, and there is a window above it, allowing natural light to enter. The window is slightly open, and the view outside shows a blue sky with clouds and part of a building with a tiled roof. The walls and door are white, and the floor appears to be wooden.The image shows a wooden shelf unit with several items. On the top shelf, there is a black safe. Below it, there are folded blankets or bedding. On the right side of the image, there is a wooden surface with a stainless steel electric kettle, a colorful basket containing various tea and coffee packets, and four ceramic cups with matching saucers in different colors: orange, light blue, white, and dark blue. The surface is covered with a brown mat.

So, I’ve decided to treat my husband to his own room for $53. I didn’t have to do it, but I thought he would appreciate peace and quiet after all the crazy adventures we had in the last few days. Sure enough, he did.The image shows a neatly arranged room with a modern design. There is a wooden desk with a black metal frame, a flat-screen TV mounted above it, and a pink chair in front. On the desk, there is a gray bag. To the right, there is an open wardrobe with shelves and a few wooden hangers. A full-length mirror with a wooden frame is mounted on the wall next to the wardrobe. A wicker basket is placed on the floor near the wardrobe. Part of a bed with a patterned pink and white bedspread is visible in the foreground. The room has wooden flooring.

If our room was small, his was downright tiny. But it had everything he needed, and the bathroom didn’t have curtains. I got a kick out of this manually-operated sunlight cover. Take that, Park Hyatt Sydney!

The image shows a ceiling with exposed wooden beams. There is a section with a translucent panel, possibly a skylight or a covered opening. A folded curtain or blind is attached to one side of the ceiling. The walls and ceiling are painted white.

In all honesty, both rooms were great, and I would not hesitate to stay in this hotel again. Everything was clean, beds were comfortable and  the showers had plenty of hot water. No complaints whatsoever.

Our rate included full breakfast, but due to our early flight departure, we weren’t able to partake. So, the owner made us boxed breakfasts to go, a nice gesture.

Keep in mind that the hotel doesn’t have an elevator. We had to drag our junk up these stairs:

The image shows a modern staircase with wooden steps and a black metal railing featuring a geometric design. The staircase is situated indoors, adjacent to a stone wall. There is a glass door at the top of the stairs, leading to another area. The overall setting appears to be a mix of industrial and rustic styles.

I’m glad we traveled with carry-ons

My favorite feature was this private patio next to family room, where my husband and I enjoyed hot tea in the evening. If you choose to book this hotel, I recommend Booking.com or Hotels.com for best prices (our affiliate links).

A rooftop terrace with a patterned tile floor featuring a circular design. There is a round glass-top table with four wicker chairs around it. An umbrella is closed and secured with stones on a stand. A white plastic chair is also present. The terrace is surrounded by a low wall, and in the background, there are buildings with red-tiled roofs.

Not a bad view, especially at that price

A nighttime cityscape featuring rooftops with red tiles in the foreground. In the background, a hillside is illuminated with numerous small lights, creating a sparkling effect against the night sky. The sky is partly cloudy, adding depth to the scene.

There is a laundry place just around the corner  where I dropped off a huge load of clothes. I paid $40 to have it ready in two hours. Not dirt cheap, but it was seriously a life saver, as we absolutely had to have  clean clothes before flying to Chile. It was ready on-time, as promised. It would have cost me only $25 for four-hour guarantee.

The owner’s son recommended a nearby restaurant for dinner, though I forgot the name. But it was the best meal we had in Peru, hands down. Beautiful colonial building, too.

The image shows the interior of a restaurant or dining area with wooden tables and chairs. The ceiling is decorated with ornate patterns and two chandeliers with exposed bulbs. There is a large window with sheer curtains, allowing natural light to enter. A television is mounted on the wall, and various decorative masks are displayed above a doorway. The floor is wooden, and there is a small stage area with audio equipment on the left side.

Tiramisu dessert was to die for, the best I had in my entire life. Menu prices were quite reasonable. We got a ton of food and paid a total of $55 for the whole family, including tip.

A dessert is elegantly presented on a green and brown plate. The dessert, possibly tiramisu, is in a glass dish and topped with a red flower, mint leaves, and a dollop of jam. The plate is decorated with three physalis fruits and sprinkled with white shavings. Three forks are placed around the dessert. A glass bottle and a red container are visible in the background.

If you are into flavorful and reasonably-priced food, Peru is the place to visit, for sure.

Final thoughts 

Our time in Peru was far too short, though we managed to see quite a bit during five nights we spent in the country. If you have limited vacation days, a week here (flights included) is doable in my opinion. Just realize that you will likely want to go back.  I really wish we had a few more days to see Humantay lake. Oh well, hopefully next time.

In fact, my husband is talking about someday retiring in Peru, he liked it that much. I’m not so sure about that, but another trip is probably in the cards. I just need to get more miles for flights, everything else in Peru  is relatively cheap.

 

Author: Leana

Leana is the founder of Miles For Family. She enjoys beach vacations and visiting her family in Europe. Originally from Belarus, Leana resides in central Florida with her husband and two children.

Comments

  1. P T says

    Been following you for years Leana. Been to Peru (twice!) years ago, but just love your trip reports and use of points reports. You are always so inventive and do things I would never think of, so, thanks!

    Reply

  2. Leana says

    @Aleks Oh yes, corn is huge in Peru! And food in general is just so good there, it’s like an explosion of flavors. I love Mexican cuisine, but Peru food is next level. We didn’t have one bad meal on our trip.
    My husband and I were talking, and I proposed flying to Peru during our hurricane season when he retires. Less of a commitment than moving there, and way cheaper than going to Montana or Wyoming. Florida summers are really getting to me, it’s just miserable down here in July through September. Being in Peru mountains sounds so nice right now!

    Reply

  3. Aleks says

    Indeed, Cusco is a neat place to visit. Plus the Peruvian food is likely the most sophisticated in South America. Hotel accommodations are generally on the smaller size – similar to Japan and some European countries, although some properties got large rooms and extended patio/balconies; breakfast included at most places, which is nice. In Cusco, our hotel chef went off to farmers market each morning to get fresh ingredients for our breakfast, and cooked everything from scratch.
    Peruvians like to celebrate – almost every day we ran across big or small (local) festival of sorts with music and dancing/procession. They are an awesome way to immerse in their culture and traditions. Also seeing villagers using centuries-old terraces for growing potatoes and corn is great. Local veggies there do taste delicious, and corn is much larger compared to (mostly GMO) varieties in the US.

    Happy travels!!

    Reply

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