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Our Day in Machu Picchu: Expensive, Complicated, Worth It

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This is the fifth installment  in my series of posts on our recent trip to South America. See my previous  posts Back from our family trip to Peru and Easter island: Bumpy start, awesome memories  , Flying in LATAM economy to South America and Easter Island , Layovers in airport-adjacent hotels: luxury attainable via points and Ideal base for Visiting Machu Picchu: Hotel Points vs. Paying Cash

There are places I’ve been to that made me wonder what the fuss is all about. You spend all that money and effort for this?! Machu Picchu was NOT one of those places. In fact, I would rank it as one of the most beautiful, if not the most beautiful sight I’ve ever seen in my  life. It sits right up there with the Bora Bora lagoon and Santorini caldera.

It’s not just the ruins themselves. After all, there are many other equally impressive archaeological sites in Peru. But the spectacular nature around it, the herculean task that must have gone into building it, and the romance of getting there by train just adds to the overall appeal. Machu Picchu  was selected as one of the new Seven Wonders of the world for a reason. It really is a “pinch me” moment when you walk up the steep steps and see this glorious view:The image shows the ancient Incan city of Machu Picchu, situated on a mountain ridge with lush green terraces and stone structures. The background features towering mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

It takes your breath away

But make no mistake about it, before you get to that point, you have to first put in a lot of effort and spend a ton of money. Our total out-of-pocket cost for the whole trip (including Easter island) was $5k. That’s lodging, food, sightseeing, award taxes etc. The day trip to Machu Picchu set us back $1k for my family of four.

But more than anything, you have to have decent health and mobility. When we showed the photos to my mother-in-law, she said she regretted declining my invitation to come. I told her while the site is incredible, her limited mobility would make it a huge challenge to go. I’m actually glad she stayed home.

Another thing I would recommend is going during dry season if at all possible (May through September). Yes, it’s more expensive and crowded, but it will improve your odds of having good weather. Even then there are no guarantees, as a couple who stayed in our lodge went the day before us and they said they had to deal with a lot of rain. We basically got lucky to have just about perfect weather during our visit, but it could have gone the other way. If this will likely be your one and only trip to Machu Picchu, which is probably the case for me, you want to do everything in your power to get it right. Oh, and bring bug spray to avoid nasty bites.

If you book a tour, all the details will be taken care of for you. This may be the way to go, but DIY version I pursued instead  is not that complicated once you figure out the quirks. And there are a lot of quirks.

The order of booking things

1) Book your entry tickets to Machu Picchu first

I can’t stress this enough. There are limited number of entries allotted each day, and they go fast, sometimes months in advance. This is especially true during dry season. You have to select a day and specific time slot, though they allow you to be late by up to 45 minutes. I recommend using official site to get your tickets, and switching to English on your mobile device. Be aware, the site is clunky, and I had to buy tickets through Microsoft Edge browser on my phone. Some recommend getting Peruvian VPN, but I never bothered with that.

The cost for foreign citizens is around $45, which is what we paid. Before you buy the tickets, however, you have to select the specific circuit. You see, this isn’t like most sites where you pay for entrance and are free to roam anywhere you like. For more details, read this article. We originally booked a 2 PM entry for Circuit 2B, but ended up doing 1B instead (more on that later). Normally, it would not be possible to switch, but since we came later in the day, it worked out.

If you are planning a trip to Peru at the last minute, you may not find any Machu Picchu tickets available online. In that case, you have two options. Some tour companies have special arrangements that allow them to buy last-minute tickets, but it will cost you dearly. The other option is to spend three nights in Aguas Calientes and line up at 5 AM to get a pre-ticket, and then line up again to get an actual ticket the next morning. Yeah, that doesn’t sound like fun to me either, but you may not have a choice.

2) Buy your train tickets 

Once your entry tickets are secured, you can relax. Everything else is relatively easy. Train tickets can technically be bought on the spot, but during high season, I would get them ahead. When doing a day trip, you have two options: Peru Rail and Inca Rail

Prices are very similar, so it depends on what schedule works better for your needs. We stayed in Ollantaytambo and I booked roundtrip tickets (10% discount) via Peru Rail for the train departing  at 9:15 AM and leaving  at 6:30 PM. That worked out well for our 2 PM entry, but only because we did a shorter circuit. In general, I would recommend allowing more time in case things go wrong. There are all kinds of fancy train options, but I booked  basic tickets, and it still cost me $130 per person. And believe me, that’s the low end, as the sky is the limit for trains to Machu Picchu.

Important! You have to verify your identity in person at one of Peru Rail offices. The confirmation email says you need to do it at least 24 hours before the train departure, but according to Reddit reports, it’s not enforced. I did it a few days prior upon landing in Cusco airport, since there is an office there. This is a super dumb rule, but it is what it is.

3) Book a guided tour (or wait till you get there)

I highly recommend arranging a private tour ahead of time, since it will be one less thing to worry about. I had some expiring credits on Viator, so that’s the website I ended up using. The cost was $83 total for a private guide, and my credits reduced it to $53. There will be guides at the train station offering their services and you may be able to get a better deal that way. Having a guide is a good investment because at the very least, you will have someone taking your family photos.

4) Buy your Machu Picchu bus transfer tickets 

You can only do it a few weeks before your visit, but that’s something I recommend booking ahead instead of wasting your precious time by physically standing in line. The cost is $25 per person for roundtrip transfer. Unless you are an experienced hiker, the bus is the way to go, hands down.

So, as you can see, the overall total is already $850. If you add lunch, tip for a guide and  a few souvenirs, that’s $1k right there for a family of four.

What our day looked like in real life

We left our lodge in Ollantaytambo at 8:30 AM, since you have to be at the train station at least 30 minutes before departure. The tickets were downloaded on my phone, but I recommend printing them just in case. Passports are checked for just about everything, so make sure to bring them with you.A small train station platform with tracks running alongside it. There is a sign for a VIP lounge above the platform. The area is surrounded by lush green trees and mountains in the background. A few people are visible in the distance on the platform. The sky is clear and blue.

The train ride was very pleasant, with scenic views every few minutes.The image shows the interior of a train car with large windows and a glass ceiling, allowing natural light to illuminate the space. Passengers are seated in rows, some wearing hats and jackets. The walls and ceiling are decorated with illustrations and patterns. Outside the windows, trees and a clear blue sky are visible.

You can buy drinks and snacks, but they won’t come cheap.

The image shows a scenic view of a mountainous landscape seen through a train window. The mountains are partially covered with snow and surrounded by clouds. In the foreground, there are fields and a few small buildings, with some trees scattered across the landscape. The interior of the train is visible, including part of the window frame and reflections on the glass.

After getting to Aguas Calientes, we went to get lunch at Sami restaurant that was recommended by our guide.A scenic view of a small, rocky river flowing through a lush, green area in a town. On the left, there are buildings and a street with people walking. A green metal bridge crosses over the river, connecting both sides. The background features more buildings and a forested hillside. The scene is vibrant and sunny.

Thumbs up for food, and the view is nothing to sneeze it.

View from a window showing a rocky river flowing through a mountainous landscape. The river is surrounded by large rocks and bordered by steep, tree-covered hills. The sky is clear with a few clouds visible in the background.A dessert is elegantly presented on a light green plate. It features a dark chocolate lava cake topped with a yellow edible flower and dusted with powdered sugar. Beside it is a scoop of vanilla ice cream garnished with a purple flower. There are small dollops of red sauce on the plate, along with additional small yellow and purple flowers for decoration. The plate is set on a wooden table with a gray placemat.

After we were done with lunch, one of the tour agency workers picked us up and took us to a spot where you line up for buses going up to Machu Picchu. This was an absolute mess, and probably the most stressful part of the trip. You basically stand outside in the middle of the street, while people cut in line. We actually spent an hour here, and everyone around us was super cranky.

The image shows a crowded street scene with people walking near a bus. A sign for "Machu Picchu Cafe" is visible above the crowd. The area is surrounded by tall, green-covered cliffs, suggesting a mountainous location. Some people are wearing hats and backpacks, indicating they might be tourists. There is a display case with pastries on the right side.

Finally, we boarded the bus and spent 30 minutes going up to Machu Picchu. The ride itself was very scenic, if a bit harrowing. There are no guard rails on the road, and occasionally, we had to pass other buses with only inches between you and the oblivion.

A lush, green mountainous landscape with steep, forested slopes under a partly cloudy sky. The foreground features dense vegetation, including trees and shrubs, with sunlight filtering through the clouds, casting light and shadows on the scene.

There are no bathrooms anywhere  in the site itself, so we took advantage of this amenity before going in. We also left several backpacks for a nominal fee. Good decision, and I wish we made the kids leave their junk too. Guess who ended up carrying it after they got tired? Bring as little as possible, but make sure you have plenty of water in reusable containers.A scenic view of a mountainous landscape with lush green vegetation in the foreground. A wooden railing lines a stone pathway on the left, leading towards a stone structure partially visible among the trees. In the background, a prominent mountain peak rises under a cloudy sky, with other mountains extending into the distance.A scenic view of lush, green mountains with steep cliffs and dense vegetation. In the foreground, there is a wooden railing, and below, a river winds through the valley. The sky is partly cloudy, casting shadows on the landscape.

Our guide met us at the entrance and we went through at exactly  2 PM. She was absolutely amazing, and told us all kinds of interesting facts about Inca empire.

A person wearing a large straw hat and a brown sweater is gesturing towards a scenic view of lush green mountains. The person is standing near a wooden railing, and there are other people sitting on the ground, possibly tourists, with some holding maps. The background features a dramatic landscape of steep, forested mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

However, when the kids learned that our tour will be 2.5 hours long (with lots of steps going uphill), they both pitched a fit. Silly me for thinking they would be excited to do it. My husband didn’t look thrilled either, but wasn’t saying anything. This is where our guide suggested doing Circuit 1B instead, that would only take 1.5 hours. You don’t get to explore ruins up close, but it shaves one hour off walking. She said this late in the day nobody cares if we swap circuits, as most tourists visit in the morning.

After thinking about it for few seconds, I took the path of least resistance. Yes, it would be cool to walk next to the ruins, but we have just explored similar site in Ollantaytambo the day prior. Plus, let’s face it, what most people want is the photo of themselves with the iconic view in the background. I’m shallow like that too.

The image shows the ancient Incan city of Machu Picchu, located in the Andes Mountains of Peru. The site features terraced fields, stone structures, and pathways, with a backdrop of steep, lush green mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

It did require walking forty five minutes  uphill before we actually got to that point. Let me tell you, not easy, and I can’t imagine navigating these steps in the rain when they get slippery. A stone pathway with uneven, moss-covered rocks is shown. Two people are walking on the path, one wearing blue jeans and a green jacket, and the other in black pants. The path is surrounded by greenery and a rope barrier on the right side.

I’m ashamed to say, but I was out of breath a few times. Should have hit that treadmill harder, I guess. Halfway up, my son told me it’s too hard and that we should turn around. Turn around?! Do you have any idea what it took to get here! I tried to get him excited telling him we are rugged explorers who are about to discover a lost city of the Incas. It didn’t work.

Sure, there are family YouTubers out there who stroll these steps leisurely while carrying a toddler on a hip and an infant strapped to the back. I would argue going with lazy teenagers may be even more challenging. But we made it to the top and lived to tell the tale.The image shows the ancient Incan city of Machu Picchu, situated on a mountain ridge with lush green terraces and stone structures. The background features towering mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

A group of people is walking up a stone staircase surrounded by ancient stone walls. In the background, there are lush green mountains under a cloudy sky. The scene appears to be set in a mountainous, historical location.

Aerial view of Machu Picchu, an ancient Incan city located in the Andes Mountains of Peru. The image shows the stone structures and terraces built into the mountainside, surrounded by lush green vegetation and steep cliffs. Visitors can be seen exploring the site.The image shows the ancient Incan city of Machu Picchu, located in the Andes Mountains of Peru. The scene includes terraced fields, stone structures, and ruins set against a backdrop of steep, lush green mountains. A group of people is visible exploring the site, highlighting its historical and archaeological significance.

The image shows a series of ancient stone terraces built into a steep hillside, covered with grass and surrounded by dense green forest. The terraces are constructed with stone walls and have a stepped appearance, indicating historical agricultural or architectural use. The lush vegetation and rugged terrain suggest a mountainous or highland environment.

One of my favorite memories is just sitting on the grass and relaxing, while enjoying the view. Btw, there was hardly anyone there, so I highly recommend going later in the day.

A scenic view of a mountainous landscape with lush green hills under a cloudy sky. In the foreground, there are two llamas standing on grassy terraces made of stone. The background features steep, forested mountains partially covered by clouds.

A person wearing a plaid shirt and dark pants is standing on a grassy field, gently touching a llama. Another llama is grazing in the background. The scene is set against a backdrop of steep, green mountains.

At one point, we saw a worker carrying baby llama, with the mama following him closely.

A person wearing a hat is carrying a small llama or alpaca along a stone path in a grassy area with stone walls. Another llama or alpaca is walking behind them. There is a wooden sign with an arrow pointing to the right. The scene appears to be in a hilly or mountainous area.

A man wearing a wide-brimmed hat and glasses is standing outdoors in a lush, green environment. Behind him, there are dense green plants and a mountainous landscape under a partly cloudy sky.

After about 30 minutes or so, it was time to head back.

A person wearing a hat is walking down a wooden staircase at Machu Picchu, an ancient Incan city in Peru. The scene includes stone structures with thatched roofs, surrounded by lush green mountains and vegetation. The sky is cloudy, adding to the dramatic landscape.

It was a bit warm for my husband to wear his newly purchased poncho, but he put it on during his train ride back to Ollantaytambo.

A person is sitting inside a train, wearing a colorful patterned poncho. The train's interior is visible, with brown seats and a window showing the exterior of another blue train car. The person is smiling and has their hands resting on a table. Glasses are placed on the table.

My partner in crime

What a day! Definitely in my top three. My son recently mentioned that he hopes years from now they will still have buses taking tourists to Machu Picchu, so he wouldn’t have to hike to the entrance. Huh? He said he is coming back with his future wife. Mission accomplished.

 

 

 

 

Author: Leana

Leana is the founder of Miles For Family. She enjoys beach vacations and visiting her family in Europe. Originally from Belarus, Leana resides in central Florida with her husband and two children.

Comments

  1. Leana says

    @Projectx Yeah, it’s not the worst idea. It honestly depends on how much time you plan to spend in Peru. With two weeks, I would not hesitate to allocate three to four nights to Aguas Calientes. Why not? It is a very beautiful area, and there are a few budget lodging options.
    We had a very tight schedule, so it wasn’t something I considered. But everyone has different priorities and circumstances.

    Reply

  2. projectx says

    “I’ll be the Devil’s Advocate and say that booking tickets on two separate days will help you hedge your bets when it comes to weather.”

    And I’ve considered doing that. Yes, certainly extra cost involved but if it’s the main attraction in an area I may never visit again… it’s not out of the question.

    Reply

  3. Leana says

    @Projectx Haha, I’m not sure my family would agree on the “nice” part! I’m considered to be the slave driver on trips, while my husband is the nice one. Truth be told, I was quite tired myself, so it was almost a relief to do the easier route.
    Honestly, my intention was not to dissuade anyone from going. As long as you plan ahead, you can avoid a lot of pitfalls. As far as weather goes, my understanding is that it rarely rains for a long period of time. And of course, coming during dry season improves your odds dramatically. But having decent shoes with nonslip soles is essential, the rule we actually didn’t follow. Fortunately, we got lucky with the weather.
    Also, while my recommendation was to do a day trip instead of staying in Aguas Calientes, I’ll be the Devil’s Advocate and say that booking tickets on two separate days will help you hedge your bets when it comes to weather. Of course, that’s extra money, but if Machu Picchu is the main goal, it could be a worthy investment to stay close by and go twice.

    Reply

  4. projectx says

    Beautiful photos. Machu Picchu is a place I have been fascinated by for a long time. But the logistics of it, and the uncertainty of the weather, give me pause. One of these days I’ll take the plunge.

    Oh, and you’re much nicer than me. If I came all that way to see the ruins up close, well, I’m going. You all can sit and wait! Hahahaha! (seriously though)

    Reply

  5. Aleks says

    @Nancy I remember that after MP entrance gate, if you just follow the path to the right, you end up in the middle of the village – without need to climb many stairs. The majority of living quarters situated on same level with occasional terraces. So this way you don’t have to hike a lot. There used to be a path on the opposite mountain peak on the far end of the village, but it takes couple hours of climbing for some splendid views (usually done by people who do multi-day MP visit). I recommend 3-4 hours at minimum exploring the site (if allowed). Bring snacks with you.

    We also enjoyed the journey to and back from Machu Picchu: a scenic train ride along the Urubamba river and bus ride up/down the misty hills. 😉

    Reply

  6. Leana says

    @Nancy I definitely think your family would enjoy it. Don’t get me wrong, you don’t have to be an athlete to visit it. However, most of the articles I’ve read during my research did not make it clear that it’s a relatively strenuous hike. Maybe because most folks visiting it are backpackers in their twenties? Going in your forties with teenagers (whose idea of exercise is playing video games) is a whole different ballgame.

    Reply

  7. Aleks says

    Well, it’s not a real adventure without some challenges, right!

    Seems like the rules and ways of visiting MP got a bit more complicated since I visited about 12 years ago. But prices seems to stay similar – I remember spending around $500 for 2 people for a day (although we bought a slightly higher train service, including food and show, but did not hire a guide).
    Nice that your son got an inspiration to come back someday and maybe explore the “city on the mountain”. In my view MP uniqueness is in large number of remaining living quarters/houses – you can look and imagine how the village look hundreds years ago: with roofs, growing crops, market square, some pets, etc. Other Inca cites around Cusco got mostly terraces remaining: still interesting but without the whole village view. The only other similar places in that respect in Peru I recall are Raqch’i and Uros Floating Islands.

    Agree – Machu Picchu a magical place, as the surroundings, scenery and uniqueness of it seeps in one’s mind. And a great example on how humans and nature can coexist together in harmony.

    Happy travels!!

    Reply

    • Leana says

      @Aleks I don’t remember if you said you’ve visited Ollantaytambo ruins. If not, I highly recommend them if you ever come back to Peru. We saw some really cool stuff, including a toilet area that was meant for only one priest who was in charge at the time. An oddity, but a fascinating one.
      I was tempted to pay extra for slightly fancier train option to Machu Picchu, with food etc. But with four people, it was tough to justify the upcharge. On the way back, a group of young Polish people sat next to us on the train. I saw some bottles of alcohol and figured it would be a lively ride. Sure enough, there was singing and such. Free entertainment! Though my husband was not amused. We were dead tired by that point.

      Reply

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