This is the fifth installment in my series of posts on our recent trip to South America. See my previous posts Back from our family trip to Peru and Easter island: Bumpy start, awesome memories , Flying in LATAM economy to South America and Easter Island , Layovers in airport-adjacent hotels: luxury attainable via points and Ideal base for Visiting Machu Picchu: Hotel Points vs. Paying Cash
There are places I’ve been to that made me wonder what the fuss is all about. You spend all that money and effort for this?! Machu Picchu was NOT one of those places. In fact, I would rank it as one of the most beautiful, if not the most beautiful sight I’ve ever seen in my life. It sits right up there with the Bora Bora lagoon and Santorini caldera.
It’s not just the ruins themselves. After all, there are many other equally impressive archaeological sites in Peru. But the spectacular nature around it, the herculean task that must have gone into building it, and the romance of getting there by train just adds to the overall appeal. Machu Picchu was selected as one of the new Seven Wonders of the world for a reason. It really is a “pinch me” moment when you walk up the steep steps and see this glorious view:
It takes your breath away
But make no mistake about it, before you get to that point, you have to first put in a lot of effort and spend a ton of money. Our total out-of-pocket cost for the whole trip (including Easter island) was $5k. That’s lodging, food, sightseeing, award taxes etc. The day trip to Machu Picchu set us back $1k for my family of four.
But more than anything, you have to have decent health and mobility. When we showed the photos to my mother-in-law, she said she regretted declining my invitation to come. I told her while the site is incredible, her limited mobility would make it a huge challenge to go. I’m actually glad she stayed home.
Another thing I would recommend is going during dry season if at all possible (May through September). Yes, it’s more expensive and crowded, but it will maximize your chances at having good weather. Even then there are no guarantees, as a couple who stayed in our lodge went the day before us and they said they had to deal with a lot of rain. We basically got lucky to have just about perfect weather during our visit, but it could have gone the other way. If this will likely be your one and only trip to Machu Picchu, which is probably the case for me, you want to do everything in your power to get it right. Oh, and bring bug spray to avoid nasty bites.
If you book a tour, all the details will be taken care of for you. This may be the way to go, but DIY version I pursued instead is not that complicated once you figure out the quirks. And there are a lot of quirks.
The order of booking things
1) Book your entry tickets to Machu Picchu first
I can’t stress this enough. There are limited number of entries allotted each day, and they go fast, sometimes months in advance. This is especially true during dry season. You have to select a day and specific time slot, though they allow you to be late by up to 45 minutes. I recommend using official site to get your tickets, and switching to English on your mobile device. Be aware, the site is clunky, and I had to buy tickets through Microsoft Edge browser on my phone. Some recommend getting Peruvian VPN, but I never bothered with that.
The cost for foreign citizens is around $45, which is what we paid. Before you buy the tickets, however, you have to select the specific circuit. You see, this isn’t like most sites where you pay for entrance and are free to roam anywhere you like. For more details, read this article. We originally booked a 2 PM entry for Circuit 2B, but ended up doing 1B instead (more on that later). Normally, it would not be possible to switch, but since we came later in the day, it worked out.
If you are planning a trip to Peru at the last minute, you may not find any Machu Picchu tickets available online. In that case, you have two options. Some tour companies have special arrangements that allow them to buy last-minute tickets, but it will cost you dearly. The other option is to spend three nights in Aguas Calientes and line up at 5 AM to get a pre-ticket, and then line up again to get an actual ticket the next morning. Yeah, that doesn’t sound like fun to me either, but you may not have a choice.
2) Buy your train tickets
Once your entry tickets are secured, you can relax. Everything else is relatively easy. Train tickets can technically be bought on the spot, but during high season, I would get them ahead. When doing a day trip, you have two options: Peru Rail and Inca Rail
Prices are very similar, so it depends on what schedule works better for your needs. We stayed in Ollantaytambo and I booked roundtrip tickets (10% discount) via Peru Rail for the train departing at 9:15 AM and leaving at 6:30 PM. That worked out well for our 2 PM entry, but only because we did a shorter circuit. In general, I would recommend allowing more time in case things go wrong. There are all kinds of fancy train options, but I booked basic tickets, and it still cost me $130 per person. And believe me, that’s the low end, as the sky is the limit for trains to Machu Picchu.
Important! You have to verify your identity in person at one of Peru Rail offices. The confirmation email says you need to do it at least 24 hours before the train departure, but according to Reddit reports, it’s not enforced. I did it a few days prior upon landing in Cusco airport, since there is an office there. This is a super dumb rule, but it is what it is.
3) Book a guided tour (or wait till you get there)
I highly recommend arranging a private tour ahead of time, since it will be one less thing to worry about. I had some expiring credits on Viator, so that’s the website I ended up using. The cost was $83 total for a private guide, and my credits reduced it to $53. There will be guides at the train station offering their services and you may be able to get a better deal that way. Having a guide is a good investment because at the very least, you will have someone taking your family photos.
4) Buy your Machu Picchu bus transfer tickets
You can only do it a few weeks before your visit, but that’s something I recommend booking ahead instead of wasting your precious time by physically standing in line. The cost is $25 per person for roundtrip transfer. Unless you are an experienced hiker, the bus is the way to go, hands down.
So, as you can see, the overall total is already $850. If you add lunch, tip for a guide and a few souvenirs, that’s $1k right there for a family of four.
What our day looked like in real life
We left our lodge in Ollantaytambo at 8:30 AM, since you have to be at the train station at least 30 minutes before departure. The tickets were downloaded on my phone, but I recommend printing them just in case. Passports are checked for just about everything, so make sure to bring them with you.
The train ride was very pleasant, with scenic views every few minutes.
You can buy drinks and snacks, but they won’t come cheap.
After getting to Aguas Calientes, we went to get lunch at Sami restaurant that was recommended by our guide.
Thumbs up for food, and the view is nothing to sneeze it.
After we were done with lunch, one of the tour agency workers picked us up and took us to a spot where you line up for buses going up to Machu Picchu. This was an absolute mess, and probably the most stressful part of the trip. You basically stand outside in the middle of the street, while people cut in line. We actually spent an hour here, and everyone around us was super cranky.
Finally, we boarded the bus and spent 30 minutes going up to Machu Picchu. The ride itself was very scenic, if a bit harrowing. There are no guard rails on the road, and occasionally, we had to pass other buses with only inches between you and the oblivion.
There are no bathrooms anywhere in the site itself, so we took advantage of this amenity before going in. We also left several backpacks for a nominal fee. Good decision, and I wish we made the kids leave their junk too. Guess who ended up carrying it after they got tired? Bring as little as possible, but make sure you have plenty of water in reusable containers.
Our guide met us at the entrance and we went through at exactly 2 PM. She was absolutely amazing, and told us all kinds of interesting facts about Inca empire.
However, when the kids learned that our tour will be 2.5 hours long (with lots of steps going uphill), they both pitched a fit. Silly me for thinking they would be excited to do it. My husband didn’t look thrilled either, but wasn’t saying anything. This is where our guide suggested doing Circuit 1B instead, that would only take 1.5 hours. You don’t get to explore ruins up close, but it shaves one hour off walking. She said this late in the day nobody cares if we swap circuits, as most tourists visit in the morning.
After thinking about it for few seconds, I took the path of least resistance. Yes, it would be cool to walk next to the ruins, but we have just explored similar site in Ollantaytambo the day prior. Plus, let’s face it, what most people want is the photo of themselves with the iconic view in the background. I’m shallow like that too.
It did require walking forty five minutes uphill before we actually got to that point. Let me tell you, not easy, and I can’t imagine navigating these steps in the rain when they get slippery.
I’m ashamed to say, but I was out of breath a few times. Should have hit that treadmill harder, I guess. Halfway up, my son told me it’s too hard and that we should turn around. Turn around?! Do you have any idea what it took to get here! I tried to get him excited telling him we are rugged explorers who are about to discover a lost city of the Incas. It didn’t work.
Sure, there are family YouTubers out there who stroll these steps leisurely while carrying a toddler on a hip and an infant strapped to the back. I would argue going with lazy teenagers may be even more challenging. But we made it to the top and lived to tell the tale.
One of my favorite memories is just sitting on the grass and relaxing, while enjoying the view. Btw, there was hardly anyone there, so I highly recommend going later in the day.
At one point, we saw a worker carrying baby llama, with the mama following him closely.
After about 30 minutes or so, it was time to head back.
It was a bit warm for my husband to wear his newly purchased poncho, but he put it on during his train ride back to Ollantaytambo.
My partner in crime
What a day! Definitely in my top three. My son recently mentioned that he hopes years from now they will still have buses taking tourists to Machu Picchu, so he wouldn’t have to hike to the entrance. Huh? He said he is coming back with his future wife. Mission accomplished.
Author: Leana
Leana is the founder of Miles For Family. She enjoys beach vacations and visiting her family in Europe. Originally from Belarus, Leana resides in central Florida with her husband and two children.
@Nancy I remember that after MP entrance gate, if you just follow the path to the right, you end up in the middle of the village – without need to climb many stairs. The majority of living quarters situated on same level with occasional terraces. So this way you don’t have to hike a lot. There used to be a path on the opposite mountain peak on the far end of the village, but it takes couple hours of climbing for some splendid views (usually done by people who do multi-day MP visit). I recommend 3-4 hours at minimum exploring the site (if allowed). Bring snacks with you.
We also enjoyed the journey to and back from Machu Picchu: a scenic train ride along the Urubamba river and bus ride up/down the misty hills. 😉
@Nancy I definitely think your family would enjoy it. Don’t get me wrong, you don’t have to be an athlete to visit it. However, most of the articles I’ve read during my research did not make it clear that it’s a relatively strenuous hike. Maybe because most folks visiting it are backpackers in their twenties? Going in your forties with teenagers (whose idea of exercise is playing video games) is a whole different ballgame.
Well, it’s not a real adventure without some challenges, right!
Seems like the rules and ways of visiting MP got a bit more complicated since I visited about 12 years ago. But prices seems to stay similar – I remember spending around $500 for 2 people for a day (although we bought a slightly higher train service, including food and show, but did not hire a guide).
Nice that your son got an inspiration to come back someday and maybe explore the “city on the mountain”. In my view MP uniqueness is in large number of remaining living quarters/houses – you can look and imagine how the village look hundreds years ago: with roofs, growing crops, market square, some pets, etc. Other Inca cites around Cusco got mostly terraces remaining: still interesting but without the whole village view. The only other similar places in that respect in Peru I recall are Raqch’i and Uros Floating Islands.
Agree – Machu Picchu a magical place, as the surroundings, scenery and uniqueness of it seeps in one’s mind. And a great example on how humans and nature can coexist together in harmony.
Happy travels!!
@Aleks I don’t remember if you said you’ve visited Ollantaytambo ruins. If not, I highly recommend them if you ever come back to Peru. We saw some really cool stuff, including a toilet area that was meant for only one priest who was in charge at the time. An oddity, but a fascinating one.
I was tempted to pay extra for slightly fancier train option to Machu Picchu, with food etc. But with four people, it was tough to justify the upcharge. On the way back, a group of young Polish people sat next to us on the train. I saw some bottles of alcohol and figured it would be a lively ride. Sure enough, there was singing and such. Free entertainment! Though my husband was not amused. We were dead tired by that point.
Wow! It looks amazing! But also strenuous for sure. I’d have to get in better shape to hack it. 🙂