This is the fourth installment in my series of posts on our recent trip to South America. See my previous posts Back from our family trip to Peru and Easter island: Bumpy start, awesome memories , Flying in LATAM economy to South America and Easter Island and Layovers in airport-adjacent hotels: luxury attainable via points
If you are currently planning a trip to Peru, choosing the best location/hotel for visiting Machu Picchu is likely your top priority. In this post I’ll try to share some thoughts and recommendations in order to make this task easier.
That said, I absolutely don’t claim to be an expert on the area. I’ve visited Peru exactly once, so these are just my personal opinions. My goal is to help you optimize your limited time, points and money while (hopefully) getting a trip of a lifetime. I’ll do a separate post on exact logistics of visiting Machu Picchu (not easy!) Today I’ll address the issue of choosing the best location for your base.
Cusco, Urubamba or Aquas Calientes?
In my opinion, neither location is the best choice and I’ll explain why. Let’s start with Cusco. According to statistics, most people visiting Machu Picchu do it as a day trip from Cusco. It’s certainly easy to see why. For one, you have to fly there anyway, so staying in the area is the path of least resistance. In addition, Cusco has several very nice hotel points options to choose from, like Palacio Del Inca, a Marriott property.
Cusco is an interesting town that deserves a few nights, so I’m not staying you should skip it. However, it’s just too far from Machu Picchu. In order to reach Aquas Calientes, a city at the base of this famous landmark, you have to spend at least four hours on the train one-way. And that’s only an option in dry season. Otherwise, you have to take a two-hour taxi or bus to Ollantaytambo and catch a 1.5 hour train from there.
And that’s not even the end of your journey because you then have to catch a bus to the sight itself. Then at the end of the day you have to repeat the whole thing again. That’s why most group tours from Cusco start at 5 AM or earlier. Is it doable? Certainly. But I wouldn’t recommend it. Would you visit Disney World as a day trip from Miami? I’m guessing not. The same logic applies here. If you still decide to do it, I strongly recommend booking a tour to let someone else worry about the logistics.
Let’s talk about Aquas Calientes. If you want to see the sunrise in Machu Picchu, then you have no choice but to overnight in this town. Be warned, while the landscape is spectacular, the town itself is not. I would only spend one night here, maybe two. Seeing sunrise wasn’t a priority to us, so I decided to do a day trip. No regrets.
Keep in mind that if there is a public transportation strike in Peru, you will be stuck in Aquas Calientes. Technically, there is a road, but getting to the pickup point requires walking two hours along train tracks. Another concern is a medical emergency, for obvious reasons. Of course, you don’t want to plan for the worst case scenario, but these issues do merit some thought IMO.
On the other hand, staying in Urubamba is worth considering. It’s still not ideal, and I’ll get to it in a minute. But I do think it’s preferable to Cusco or Aquas Calientes. While Urubamba itself is kind of ugly, this area is where you’ll find a lot of nice resorts, some accessible via points. I haven’t stayed in any of them, so can’t provide any feedback on quality. So, I’ll focus on points value and location quirks.
Driving through Urubamba
Tambo Del Inka is a gated resort that has really good reviews and does look nice in the photos. The rate per night seems crazy high to me, at $500 or more. That’s why using points or Marriott certificates usually provides outstanding value, with some dates running at 46k points per night.
Right now you can apply for Chase Marriott Bonvoy Boundless card and get 5 free Marriott nights (costing up to 50k points) after spending $5k in the first three months. There is also an option to top off the certificates with up to 15k points. Non-affiliate application link
That’s potentially terrific value if you have your eye on this property. However, keep in mind that there is a resort fee of $40 per night/per room. Also, unless you have elite Bonvoy status, breakfast won’t come cheap. But the biggest drawback is location itself. Yes, the resort looks nice, with stunning mountains surrounding it. But it will take you at least 35 minutes to reach Ollantaytambo town, an absolute “must see” in the Sacred Valley.
The resort boasts having its own train station for visiting Machu Picchu. While it’s technically true, keep in mind that according to my research, train tickets will run you at least $50 more one-way compared to nearby town of Ollantaytambo. It may not be a big deal for a couple, but paying $400 extra for a family of four is substantial. In addition, the posted departure and return times may not give you enough time to see Machu Picchu, so you will likely be able to only utilize Tambo Del Inka train station for departure or return, not both.
Obviously, it’s still way better than trekking two hours back to Cusco, but for me it would be a deal breaker. I didn’t really have any way to obtain this Marriott offer due to 5/24 rule. Plus, we needed two rooms each night and ended up staying in the area for four days. It just wasn’t feasible regardless.
I was, however, tempted to use my Sonesta card bonus on Sonesta Posadas Del Inca Sacred Valley property, located near Urubamba. It’s a converted 18th century monastery that looks really cool. The cost is 20k points per night for a room or suite, which isn’t bad at all.
Ultimately, the location proved to be a deal breaker, though I was really tempted.
Why Ollantaytambo is an ideal base
This is my subjective opinion, of course, but I highly recommend driving to Ollantaytambo as soon as you land in Cusco and spending at least three nights there.
Booking private transfer ahead is easy via Taxidatum.com and it will cost you around $35 for a car, $50 for minivan. Yes, that’s dirt cheap.
Ollantaytambo has an altitude of 9k feet compared to 11k feet in Cusco. If you have any issues with altitude sickness, you will likely have an easier time in the former.
If you’ve never been this high up, there is really no way to know how your body will react. We got Diamox prescription from the doctor in US and I made the whole family take it. Btw, this medication can be bought in most pharmacies in Peru without prescription, but you are supposed to start it a day or two before you land.
None of us had any problems in Ollantaytambo, but my daughter was struggling with altitude when we got to Cusco for our last night. It wasn’t terrible, but her heart was racing and she was really having a hard time walking uphill. We had a morning flight out of Cusco and while at the airport, I’ve noticed that my nose was bleeding and body extremities tingling, all signs of altitude sickness. We were all taking Diamox at the time.
Fortunately, we were gone before my symptoms got worse. Our host in Ollantaytambo said about a third of her guests get altitude sickness, though most symptoms are usually mild. Again, starting at a lower elevation is prudent, giving your body time to adjust.
Ollantaytambo itself is a delightful Inca town that dates from 15th century, though there is evidence the area was inhabited far longer than that. It’s also were Incas took their last stand against Spanish conquistadors. It’s surprising to me that Peruvian tourism board is not promoting the town more.
To me, it’s just as impressive as Machu Picchu and a “must see” in Sacred Valley. As mentioned earlier, you can catch direct train from this town and it will take you 1.5 hours each way.
Since visiting Machu Picchu from Olantaytambo will take a whole day, you really need a third night to experience the town itself. But first you need to find where to stay. There is actually one option bookable via Hyatt points right outside of town: Las Qolcas, part of Mr and Mrs Smith collection. This is a glamping resort that looks really neat.
A couple can pay as little as 16k Hyatt points per night, and a group tent with two bathrooms will run at 32k Hyatt points, though rates do vary. If you are swimming in Hyatt points, I think it’s a very interesting option.
My Hyatt points come exclusively from Chase transfers, so I decided to look elsewhere. In the end, we ended up staying in Casafranca lodge located 1 mile from town center. We paid $120 per night total and the rate included full breakfast and free local transfers provided by the owner.
Originally, we booked a guest cottage, but she messaged me a few days before the stay telling me the house had some issues. She offered me two rooms in the main lodge for the same rate and I accepted. This actually worked out for the best, as we got two rooms located next to each other and two bathrooms instead of one.
We also got access to a spacious living room with a spectacular view of the Andes mountains as well as Inca ruins in the distance.
Breakfast was absolutely delicious
The rooms were very clean and the beds comfortable. The owner was also super helpful and provided transfers when needed. I was especially grateful when she picked us up from the train station (6 minutes away from the lodge) at 8:30 pm after our day trip to Machu Picchu. I’ve read that there aren’t many taxis there at night, so it was nice to have a transfer secured ahead of time.
There are a few issues with this property, however. First and foremost is limited hot water. The main lodge has four rooms and there was a couple staying upstairs. One night they evidently used up all the hot water and we ended up getting cold showers. It wasn’t their fault, there isn’t much hot water to be had as we found out after they moved out. To be fair, this is a problem with many local hotels, as reviews indicate.
Also, the description on the website mentioned heating. There wasn’t any, and it gets cold in Peru in June. The beds had heavy comforters, so we managed, but I recommend getting a place that has at least space heaters available. Also, while the location was peaceful, in retrospect, I would prefer to stay closer to the center of town.
Still, overall, we did enjoy our stay and for $120 per night I would be a jerk to complain. If you decide to book a stay here, be aware that the property is listed for sale. It should be fine if you are going in the next month or so, but I wouldn’t risk it otherwise.
Booking.com is probably your best bet for finding a hotel room, and you should be able to reserve a decent place for $120 per night for a family of four, $60 for a couple.
What we did in Ollantaytambo
1) Hire a private guide to tour Ollantaytambo ruins
If you only have time to do one thing, this is it. We had a friendly guide approach us as we were buying tickets, and he offered a 1-hour tour for $40 total. I accepted.
He did an outstanding job, and if you need a contact number, email me at milesforfamily@gmail.com
Very impressive ruins, some of the most important in all of Peru. Highly recommended.
After the tour, I invited him to hang out with my family at a local cafe. We talked about life, while drinking some potent Pisco Sours. Good times.
2) Walk around town, observing local life
The whole city is like a living museum. One feature that impressed me is the elaborate system of canals, dating back to Inca times.
They are literally everywhere.
We stopped by Casa de Cuy where they raise a bunch of guinea pigs.
Most of the action takes place in the main town square.
That’s where we ended up having dinner. Our host recommended Chuncho restaurant and it was an excellent option. It is on expensive side (we spent $100 total for four people), but everything was top notch and we got a bunch of local delicacies to try. Recommended.
My daughter and I came back the next day and used this car/motorcycle thingy called Tuk Tuk to get to the train station to meet the rest of the family.
The cost is 1.5 dollars for a mile-long ride, and we gave the guy $3. No, there are no seatbelts. But when in Rome…
My daughter wanted us to get a Peruvian massage, and I agreed. The cost was $22 per person for 30 minutes, which is quite reasonable. This is the sign that greeted us, by the way.
The ladies did a great job, and it’s a fun memory for me and my daughter.
3) Attend Pachamanca in El Albergue farm
Pachamanca means “earth oven” in the Quechua language, and is basically a traditional feast. If you’ve ever attended a luau in Hawaii, it’s similar, minus the dancing.
The experience is run by El Albergue property (located at the train station) and includes a tour of the farm, plus distillery tasting.
Of course, the real star is the food you get to enjoy at the end of the tour.
Everything was absolutely delicious, but there was too much food for the four of us. Fortunately, whatever is left is taken by hotel workers to their families. At the end of the meal, the guests are encouraged to enjoy the property grounds, which my daughter was happy to do.
While we did have a lot of fun, I will say the cost of $67 per person is a bit high. This one is probably skippable.
Final thoughts
As mentioned earlier, I’ll do a separate post on visiting Machu Picchu, as it’s something you absolutely should do while in the area. However, don’t miss out on other gems like Ollantaytambo, which will simultaneously serve as the perfect base for seeing this wonder of the world.
Author: Leana
Leana is the founder of Miles For Family. She enjoys beach vacations and visiting her family in Europe. Originally from Belarus, Leana resides in central Florida with her husband and two children.
@Projectx Thank you! Appreciate it.
This looks epic. Thank you for sharing the details!