Miles For Family

We show middle class folks (like us) how they can leverage their good credit score to finally take that long-awaited trip. Travel isn’t free but we can help you take trips for pennies on the dollar!

Ideal Base for Visiting Machu Picchu: Hotel Points Vs. Paying Cash

By 12 Comments

This is the fourth installment  in my series of posts on our recent trip to South America. See my previous  posts Back from our family trip to Peru and Easter island: Bumpy start, awesome memories  , Flying in LATAM economy to South America and Easter Island and Layovers in airport-adjacent hotels: luxury attainable via points

If you are currently planning a trip to Peru, choosing the best location/hotel for visiting Machu Picchu is likely your top priority. In this post I’ll try to share some thoughts and recommendations in order to make this task easier.The image shows the ancient Incan city of Machu Picchu, located in the Andes Mountains of Peru. The site features terraced fields and stone structures set against a backdrop of steep, lush green mountains. The sky is partly cloudy, casting shadows over the landscape.

That said, I absolutely don’t claim to be an expert on the area. I’ve visited Peru exactly once, so these are just my personal opinions. My goal is to help you optimize your limited time, points and money while (hopefully) getting a trip of a lifetime. I’ll do a separate post on exact logistics of visiting Machu Picchu (not easy!) Today I’ll address the issue of choosing the best location for your base.

Cusco, Urubamba or Aguas Calientes?

In my opinion, neither location is the best choice and I’ll explain why. Let’s start with Cusco. According to statistics, most people visiting Machu Picchu do it as a day trip from Cusco. It’s certainly easy to see why. For one, you have to fly there anyway, so staying in the area is the path of least resistance. In addition, Cusco has several very nice hotel points options to choose from, like Palacio Del Inca, a Marriott property.

Cusco is an interesting town that deserves a few nights, so I’m not saying you should skip it. However, it’s just too far from Machu Picchu. In order to reach Aquas Calientes, a city at the base of this famous landmark, you have to spend at least four hours on the train one-way. And that’s only an option in dry season. Otherwise, you have to take a two-hour taxi or bus to Ollantaytambo and catch a 1.5 hour train from there.

And that’s not even the end of your journey because you then have to catch a bus to the sight itself. Then at the end of the day you have to repeat the whole thing again. That’s why most group tours from Cusco start at 5 AM or earlier. Is it doable? Certainly. But I wouldn’t recommend it. Would you visit Disney World as a day trip from Miami? I’m guessing not. The same logic applies here. If you still decide to do it, I strongly recommend booking a tour to let someone else worry about the logistics.

Let’s talk about Aguas Calientes. If you want to see the sunrise in Machu Picchu, then you have no choice but to overnight in this town. Be warned, while the landscape is spectacular, the town itself is not. I would only spend one night here, maybe two. Seeing sunrise wasn’t a priority to us, so I decided to do a day trip. No regrets.

Keep in mind that if there is a public transportation strike in Peru, you will be stuck in Aquas Calientes. Technically, there is a road, but getting to the pickup point requires walking two hours along train tracks. Another concern is a medical emergency, for obvious reasons. Of course,  you don’t want to plan for the worst case scenario, but these issues do merit some thought IMO.

On the other hand, staying in Urubamba  is worth considering. It’s still not ideal, and I’ll get to it in a minute. But I do think it’s preferable to Cusco or Aquas Calientes. While Urubamba itself  is kind of ugly, this area is where you’ll find a lot of nice resorts, some accessible via points. I haven’t stayed in any of them, so can’t provide any feedback on quality. So, I’ll focus on points value and location quirks.A view from inside a vehicle looking out onto a road in a rural area. The road is lined with buildings on the left, including a colorful structure with signs. On the right, there is a blue fence and some vegetation. In the distance, there are hills under a partly cloudy sky. The dashboard of the vehicle has a small white fluffy object and an orange cloth. Several vehicles are visible on the road ahead.

Driving through Urubamba

Tambo Del Inka is a gated resort that has really good reviews and does look nice in the photos. The rate per night seems crazy high to me, at $500 or more. That’s why using points or Marriott certificates usually provides outstanding value, with some dates running at 46k points per night. The image shows a calendar for May 2026, displaying nightly rates in points for a hotel booking. Each date has a corresponding number of points required, with some dates highlighted in green indicating "LOW" rates of 46,000 points. The calendar is part of a booking interface, with options to edit the dates and continue with the booking. The website shown is marriott.com.

 

Right now you can apply for Chase Marriott Bonvoy Boundless card and get 5 free Marriott nights (costing up to 50k points) after spending $5k in the first three months. There is also an option to top off the certificates with up to 15k points. Non-affiliate application link

That’s potentially terrific value if you have your eye on this property. However, keep in mind that there is a resort fee of $40 per night/per room. Also, unless you have elite Bonvoy status, breakfast won’t come cheap. But the biggest drawback is location itself. Yes, the resort looks nice, with stunning mountains surrounding it. But it will take you at least 35 minutes to reach Ollantaytambo town, an absolute “must see” in the Sacred Valley. The image shows a Google search results page on a mobile device for the query "drive from tambo del inca to ollantaytambo train station." It displays a map with a route highlighted from Tambo del Inka, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, to Estación Ferroviaria de Ollantaytambo. The driving time is shown as 35 minutes for a distance of 20.1 km via Route 28B. Other travel options include a bus taking 1 hour 30 minutes and walking taking 4 hours 25 minutes. The time is 9:31, and the battery is at 86%.

The resort boasts having its own train station for visiting Machu Picchu. While it’s technically true, keep in mind that according to my research, train tickets will run you at least $50 more one-way compared to nearby town of Ollantaytambo. It may not be a big deal for a couple, but paying $400 extra for a family of four is substantial. In addition, the posted departure and return times may not give you enough time to see Machu Picchu, so you will likely be able to only utilize Tambo Del Inka train station for departure or return, not both.

Obviously, it’s still way better than trekking two hours back to Cusco, but for me it would be a deal breaker. I didn’t really have any way to obtain this Marriott offer due to 5/24 rule. Plus, we needed two rooms each night and ended up staying in the area for four days. It just wasn’t feasible regardless.

I was, however,  tempted to use my Sonesta card bonus  on Sonesta Posadas Del Inca Sacred Valley property, located near Urubamba. It’s a converted 18th century monastery that looks really cool. The cost is 20k points per night for a room or suite, which isn’t bad at all.

The image shows a hotel booking page for Sonesta Posadas Del Inca Sacred Valley. It displays a suite room with a large bed covered with a plaid blanket, a cushioned chair with colorful pillows, and a small side table. The room has wooden accents and a view into a bathroom with a patterned wall. The text indicates the suite accommodates up to two guests and includes amenities like individual heating, free Wi-Fi, cable TV, a digital safe, and a King bed. The member rate is $185 per night or 20,000 Travel Pass points. There is a "Select Room" button at the bottom.

 

Ultimately, the location proved to be a deal breaker, though I was really tempted.

Why Ollantaytambo is an ideal base

This is my subjective opinion, of course, but I highly recommend driving to  Ollantaytambo as soon as you land in Cusco and spending at least three nights there.
Booking private transfer ahead is easy via Taxidatum.com and it will cost you around $35 for a car, $50 for minivan. Yes, that’s dirt cheap.

Ollantaytambo has an altitude of 9k feet compared to 11k feet in Cusco. If you have any issues with altitude sickness, you will likely have an easier time in the former.

If you’ve never been this high up, there is really no way to know how your body will react. We got Diamox prescription from the doctor in US and I made the whole family take it. Btw, this medication can be bought in most pharmacies in Peru without prescription, but you are supposed to start it a day or two before you land.

None of us had any problems in Ollantaytambo, but my daughter was struggling with altitude when we got to Cusco for our last night. It wasn’t terrible, but her heart was racing and she was really having a hard time walking uphill. We had a morning flight out of Cusco and while at the airport, I’ve noticed that my nose was bleeding and body extremities tingling, all signs of altitude sickness. We were all taking Diamox at the time.

Fortunately, we were gone before my symptoms got worse. Our host in Ollantaytambo said about a third of her guests get altitude sickness, though most symptoms are usually mild. Again, starting at a lower elevation is prudent, giving your body time to adjust.

Ollantaytambo itself is a delightful Inca town that dates from 15th century, though there is evidence the area was inhabited far longer than that. It’s also where Incas took their last stand against Spanish conquistadors. It’s surprising to me that Peruvian tourism board is not promoting the town more.A rustic building with a tiled roof is in the foreground, featuring woven decorations on its wall. Behind it, a steep, rocky hillside is visible, with ancient stone ruins along the ridge. The sky is partly cloudy, with a mix of blue sky and dark clouds. Vegetation is sparse on the hillside, with some bushes and small plants.

To me, it’s just as impressive as Machu Picchu and a “must see” in Sacred Valley. As mentioned earlier, you can catch direct train   from this town and it will take you 1.5 hours each way.

Since visiting Machu Picchu from Olantaytambo will  take a whole day, you really need a third night to experience the town itself. But first you need to find where to stay. There is actually one option bookable via Hyatt points right outside of town: Las Qolcas, part of Mr and Mrs Smith collection. This is a glamping resort that looks really neat.

A couple can pay as little as 16k Hyatt points per night, and a group tent with two bathrooms will run at 32k Hyatt points, though rates do vary. If you are swimming in Hyatt points, I think it’s a very interesting option.

My Hyatt points come exclusively from Chase transfers, so I decided to look elsewhere.  In the end, we ended up staying in Casafranca lodge located 1 mile from town center.  We  paid  $120 per night  total and the rate included full breakfast and free local transfers provided by the owner. A two-story house with a tiled roof is situated in a grassy area. A silver SUV is parked nearby. In the background, there are large mountains under a clear blue sky with a few clouds.

Originally, we booked a guest cottage, but she messaged me a few days before the stay telling me the house had some issues. She offered me two rooms in the main lodge for the same rate and I accepted. This actually worked out for the best, as we got two rooms located next to each other and two bathrooms instead of one.The image shows a room with two neatly made beds, each with a decorative runner featuring a geometric and animal pattern. The beds are positioned against a wall with white curtains, partially open, revealing a dark space behind them. The floor is wooden, and there is a plain white wall on the right side of the image. A small piece of gray fabric is on one of the beds.

We also got access to a spacious living room with a spectacular view of the Andes mountains as well as Inca ruins in the distance.

The image shows a modern living and dining area with large windows offering a view of a grassy outdoor space and mountains in the background. Inside, there are two blue sofas and a wooden dining table set with white dishes and glasses of orange juice. A wooden staircase with a metal railing leads to an upper level. The room has wooden flooring and a warm, inviting atmosphere.

A breakfast table setting with various items. There is a basket of bread, a white teapot, a small pitcher of milk, and a cup and saucer. A glass jar of honey with a wooden dipper is present, along with a stack of butter slices on a rectangular plate. A carafe of orange juice is also on the table, along with a covered dish. Napkins and sugar packets are neatly arranged in holders. A person in a dark jacket is seated at the table.

Breakfast was absolutely delicious

The rooms were very clean and the beds comfortable. The owner was also super helpful and provided transfers when needed. I was especially grateful when she picked us up from the train station (6 minutes away from the lodge) at 8:30 pm after our day trip to Machu Picchu. I’ve read that there aren’t many taxis there at night, so it was nice to have a transfer secured ahead of time.

There are a few issues with this property, however. First and foremost is limited hot water. The main lodge has four rooms and there was a couple staying upstairs. One night they evidently used up all the hot water and we ended up getting cold showers. It wasn’t their fault, there isn’t much hot water to be had as we found out after they moved out.  To be fair, this is a  problem with many local hotels, as reviews indicate.

Also, the description on the website mentioned heating. There wasn’t any, and it gets cold in Peru in June. The beds had heavy comforters, so we managed, but I recommend getting a place that has at least space heaters available. Also, while the location was peaceful, in retrospect, I would prefer to stay closer to the center of town.

Still, overall, we did enjoy our stay and for $120 per night I would be a jerk to complain. If you decide to book a stay here, be aware that the property is listed for sale. It should be fine if you are going in the next month or so, but I wouldn’t risk it otherwise.

Booking.com is probably your best bet for finding a hotel room, and you should be able to reserve a decent place for $120 per night for  a family of four, $60 for a couple.

What we did in Ollantaytambo

1) Hire a private guide to tour Ollantaytambo ruins

If you only have time to do one thing, this is it. We had a friendly guide approach us as we were buying tickets, and he offered a 1-hour tour for  $40 total. I accepted.

A person wearing a brown hat and sunglasses is in the foreground of the image, with a large stone structure and terraces in the background. The structure is built into a steep hillside, and there are people walking on the terraces. The sky is partly cloudy.

He did an outstanding job, and if you need a contact number, email me at milesforfamily@gmail.com

Two alpacas are standing on a grassy area with ancient stone ruins in the background. The scene is set against a rocky hillside, and a few people are visible near the ruins, taking photos and sitting. The alpacas are facing away, with one slightly larger than the other.The image shows an ancient stone structure with a small stream of water flowing through a channel in the stones. The walls are made of rough, uneven stones, and there is an opening that reveals a mountainous landscape in the background. The sky is partly cloudy, and there is a rope barrier on the right side of the image.

Very impressive ruins, some of the most important in all of Peru. Highly recommended.

After the tour, I invited him to hang out with my family at a local cafe. We talked about life, while drinking some potent  Pisco Sours. Good times.

The image shows a rocky cliff face with natural formations. The surface is rugged and uneven, with patches of vegetation growing in some areas. The rocks have various shades of gray and brown, and there are some shadows cast on the cliff.

2) Walk around town, observing local life

The whole city is like a living museum. One feature that impressed me is the elaborate system of canals, dating back to Inca times.

A narrow stone-lined canal with flowing water runs through a cobblestone pathway. The path is bordered by stone walls, and there are tree stump planters on either side. A person wearing white pants is partially visible walking on the left side of the image.

They are literally everywhere.

A narrow cobblestone alleyway with yellow and stone buildings on either side. A small water channel runs along the left side of the path. There is a sign on the right that reads "Hospedaje Killayh Market," and colorful textiles and pom-poms are displayed on the wall. Two people are walking in the distance. Overhead, wires are strung between the buildings, and mountains are visible in the background.

A narrow cobblestone street with a group of people wearing traditional colorful clothing. They are walking away from the camera. A motorcycle is parked on the right side of the street. The buildings are made of stone and have signs and plants along the walls. The street is lined with rustic architecture, and there are various signs in Spanish.We stopped by Casa de Cuy where they raise a bunch of guinea pigs.

The image shows several enclosures made of wooden fences, each containing multiple guinea pigs. The enclosures are filled with straw and some green vegetation. The guinea pigs are of various colors, including black, white, and brown, and are seen eating or resting. The setting appears to be an indoor or covered area with a dirt floor.

Most of the action takes place in the main town square. A street scene in a small town with traditional architecture. A person is kneeling on the ground playing a guitar, while another person stands nearby, posing with an arm outstretched. There are several vehicles, including a pickup truck, motorcycles, a van, and a tuk-tuk. The buildings have wooden balconies and signs for a pub and a restaurant. The background features rocky hills.

A person with long braided hair is wearing a colorful traditional outfit, including a pink sweater and a decorative hat with flowers. They are standing near a stone building with wooden windows. Above them, there are hanging light bulbs and a striped canopy. Another person is partially visible on the right, wearing a patterned garment.

That’s where we ended up having  dinner. Our host recommended Chuncho restaurant and it was an excellent option. It is on expensive side (we spent $100 total for four people), but everything was top notch and we got a bunch of local delicacies to try. Recommended.

A wooden platter filled with a variety of foods, including grilled corn, roasted potatoes, grilled meat, and several small bowls containing different side dishes like pickled vegetables and diced potatoes. There are also stuffed peppers and a piece of grilled fish, all arranged on corn husks. A glass of water and a menu are visible in the background.

My daughter and I came back the next day and used this car/motorcycle thingy called  Tuk Tuk to get to the train station to meet the rest of the family.

A small plaza is set against a backdrop of large, rugged mountains under a cloudy sky. In the foreground, a blue and white tuk-tuk is parked on a stone-paved area. The plaza features a statue surrounded by flowers and trees, with several flagpoles nearby. People are walking and sitting around the plaza, and there are market stalls with colorful canopies in the background.

The cost is 1.5 dollars for a mile-long ride, and we gave the guy $3. No, there are no seatbelts. But when in Rome…

The image shows the interior of a small vehicle, possibly a rickshaw or tuk-tuk. There is a dark curtain hanging behind the driver's seat, partially obscuring the view. The vehicle's interior is black with some blue elements, and a side mirror is visible through the window. Outside, a street scene with a person walking on the sidewalk can be seen.

My daughter wanted us to get a Peruvian massage, and I agreed. The cost was $22 per person for 30 minutes, which is quite reasonable. This is the sign that greeted us, by the way.

The image shows a handwritten sign pinned to a board. The sign reads: "Here we do not accept to do sex, do not insist, only professional massage!! Thank you." The sign is decorated with a green yarn string with small flowers attached. There are also small notes pinned to the board around the sign.

The ladies did a great job, and it’s a fun memory for me and my daughter.

3) Attend Pachamanca in El Albergue farm

Pachamanca means “earth oven” in the Quechua language, and is basically a traditional feast. If you’ve ever attended a luau in Hawaii, it’s similar, minus the dancing.

A lush garden with various plants and flowers is in the foreground, surrounded by a wooden fence. In the background, there are rolling hills and mountains under a cloudy sky. A few buildings with red roofs are visible in the distance, nestled in the landscape. The scene is serene and natural, with a mix of greenery and colorful blooms.

The experience is run by El Albergue property (located at the train station) and includes a tour of the farm, plus distillery tasting.


The image shows the interior of a distillery. There are several large copper stills on the left side, used for distillation. In the foreground, a wooden table displays several bottles of spirits. Shelves filled with various bottles line the walls in the background. A person is standing near the shelves, and the room has a rustic wooden ceiling with exposed beams.

Of course, the real star is the food you get to enjoy at the end of the tour.

The image shows two people working outdoors near a traditional cooking setup. There are two stone-lined pits with fires, and one person is tending to one of the pits. A wooden table in the foreground holds clay pots and a basket of green vegetables. In the background, there are shovels, a broom, and some large clay pots. The area is surrounded by greenery.A table is set with various dishes in clay pots. One pot contains grilled or roasted meat, another has a fresh salad with leafy greens and bright orange edible flowers. A third pot holds a mix of roasted potatoes and green beans. There are also plates with additional food items, a glass with a drink, and utensils on the table. The setting appears to be rustic and inviting.

Everything was absolutely delicious, but there was too much food for the four of us. Fortunately, whatever is left is taken by hotel workers to their families. At the end of the meal, the guests are encouraged to enjoy the property grounds, which my daughter was happy to do.

A person is relaxing in a colorful hammock in a lush garden setting. The hammock is tied between two wooden posts in front of a stone wall covered with greenery. There are trees and bushes surrounding the area, and a backpack is placed on the grass nearby. The sky is overcast, and there are mountains visible in the background.

While we did have a lot of fun,  I will say the cost of $67 per person is a bit high. This one is probably skippable.

 

Final thoughts

As mentioned earlier, I’ll do a separate post on visiting Machu Picchu, as it’s something you absolutely should do while in the area. However, don’t miss out on other gems like Ollantaytambo, which will simultaneously  serve as the perfect base for seeing this wonder of the world.

Author: Leana

Leana is the founder of Miles For Family. She enjoys beach vacations and visiting her family in Europe. Originally from Belarus, Leana resides in central Florida with her husband and two children.

Comments

  1. Leana says

    @Victor Wow, that was one awesome trip you had! Thanks for sharing. I’ve read the whole trip report and looked at the photos. I’m especially in awe of your wife. I would love to do that trek, but too chicken to go alone. And there is no way my husband would be up for that.
    I’m hoping to visit Humantay lake and possibly Rainbow mountain if my husband and I ever go back. It wasn’t an option this time (for various reasons). My only concern is elevation. We would need to have 4-5 days in Cusco to adjust, as I had some issues during our overnight stay. My husband wasn’t affected at all. Btw, that JW Marriott sounds amazing. I love hotels with spa areas! Peru is absolutely on my “return” list. What an incredible place.

    Reply

  4. Victor says

    We preferred Cusco JW for the week. MP was just one of many sites that made for long days but the O2 enhanced rooms, dining options, $30 per hour (in town) massages, street festivals, and using Marriott points made it easy decision.
    Album here with psites including salt mine, painted mountain, red valley (amazing) check drobe videos
    https://www.flickr.com/gp/85268984@N02/56P2976Ap9

    Reply

  5. Leana says

    @Nancy It was really cool! I’ve noticed there are several new hotels there that look quite decent. It seems like the word is spreading. It won’t stay off radar for very long.

    Reply

  7. Leana says

    @Aleks That sounds neat, and you definitely make some good points about visiting capitals if at all possible. They are usually a microcosm of a country.
    I certainly hope to make my way back to that neck of the woods at some point. Peru definitely exceeded my expectations. In a way, my primary goal was to check Machu Picchu off my bucket list. But Peru is so much more than that. I had no idea that Inca civilization was that sophisticated. The precision that went into construction blew my mind, and we only scratched the surface.

    Reply

  8. Aleks says

    @Leana – Short on extra days most of the trips, isn’t that a theme! Ha-ha!
    Lima, Peru and Santiago, Chile are both nice cities with historical/cultural centers and bunch of things to explore. So would recommend future travelers to spend at least 1-2 full days there. Lima got picturesque post-colonial style architecture and Miraflores oceanfront promenade with dramatic cliffs, plus great food options (and fruity purple beer, yam). Santiago offers freshest fruits ever (at street stalls), vast beautiful city parks (one with huge stature of Mary – similar to Christ stature in Rio), blooming Jacaranda trees, good public transport and helpful police officers.
    As my good companion said: “When traveling to a new country, it’s better to visit a capital in order to get a good feel of the place, otherwise it might feel incomplete.” And I support this idea for most countries.

    Reply

  9. Leana says

    @Aleks Sounds like a cool trip! I wish we had more time, as I’ve heard good things about Pisac. I’m so glad we extended the trip by two nights, despite the drama with the flat tire on the way to the airport.
    It would be such a shame to leave Peru after only three nights. What was I thinking?! I do kind of wish we had one more night in Cusco, but changing Machu Picchu tickets was not possible. In retrospect, spending three nights in Ollantaytambo and two in Cusco would be ideal. Then again, maybe I got out in time, before my altitude sickness symptoms got worse. I will have a post on Cusco, as we stayed in this cute hotel that sounds similar to what you’ve described. Good times!

    Reply

  10. Aleks says

    Nice review, I like the planning details you went through, and providing options for points users as various properties. We visited area in 2013 and it was a very epic trip overall. Back then there weren’t many chain hotels to choose from, so I’ve used 23,500 BA avios to book 4 nights in nice Spanish-colonial-style casa hotel in the middle of Cusco. It has the breakfast on rooftop terrace overlooking the town, and room has a balcony hanging over the narrow cobble street. Good memories!
    And we hired a local trusted taxi driver beforehand to get us to and from train station for our day trip to Machu Picchu. Yes, we went on taxi, train and bus to get there in the early morning, and then back to hotel on the same day, but the train ride was very enjoyable and scenic, with good food serve and even entertainment on the go. On the following day we went to Pisac – which some call “poor’s man Machu Micchu” 😉 and it turned out to be a very nice town with historic ruins on the hill above, great views and almost zero tourists (big plus!) We took local minivan shuttle for about $2 pp. in each direction, plus a taxi to drive us up and down the hill for $20 total. And day before MP we spend exploring Sacsayhuaman (short taxi ride uphill) and Cusco – wish we had one extra days there.

    Happy travels!!

    Reply

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Recent Posts

Find Us On Facebook

Find Us On Facebook