I have to admit, when I see a travel blogger use the term “life-changing experience”, I often roll my eyes. Not that yours truly is not prone to exaggerations, but over the years very few travel-related things have left me in awe. Yet, that’s the only way to describe our recent family trip to Japan. 
It almost feels like we visited another planet. Sure, everyone looked human, the grass was green, but things were just, well, different.
I’m sure you’ve heard that Japan is a country of contradictions, and I can confirm that this is indeed the case. It’s very much high-tech, with occasional giant robots dominating the skyline.
And don’t get me started on toilets! Just when I finally figured out how to use a specific model, I was left scratching my head when encountering a totally different setup. I sure could relate to Homer Simpson at times:
And yet, Japan is a very conservative country where ancient traditions are honored and revered. While I expected to encounter locals dressed up in a kimono in a place like Kyoto, it surprised me to see many families strolling the streets of Hiroshima wearing a traditional Japanese garb on a Saturday night. Not for tourists, but because they are proud of their culture.
Many equate Japan with efficiency, and for a good reason. Trains run on time, tour guides show up ten minutes early etc. And yet, a lot of things don’t really make sense. Like having two people at the airport at every corner, pointing arriving passengers to the correct lane when there is a perfectly good sign already explaining the instructions. You get a sense that in Japan micromanaging is a desirable quality on a job application.
Of course, I can’t not mention how polite Japanese society is as a whole. It’s truly something to behold. Even a checkout clerk at a 7/11 bows to you when you buy a carton of milk. Manners are a big deal here, for realz. You will not hear any honking on the streets, even in a big city like Tokyo. I live in a super conservative county in Florida. Say what you like about South, but they know a thing or two about politeness and hospitality. I constantly hear “sweetheart” and “have a blessed day” when going to a drive thru at a local McDonalds. Well, they would be considered rude jerks compared to an average Japanese.
On the other hand, there is a clear distinction of us vs. them. When I was waiting for an elevator in our hotel in Hiroshima, a worker started separating the groups into Japanese and those who are not. When a white guy tried to join an elevator full of Asians, he was promptly directed back to our segregated corner. Though to be fair, the hotel worker did it with a smile and while bowing. It was a bizarre reminder that things are not always what they appear at first glance.
Like I said, Japan is full of contradictions. You can let it drive you crazy, or you can embrace them and enjoy a culture totally different from the one you are used to. And isn’t it the best part of travel? I do think that Japan is a terrific destination for families, and hope to encourage you to consider it for your next trip. My children had an absolute blast and both said that this was their favorite family vacation to date. Though you may want to wait until your kids are a bit older because they might appreciate Japan more as teenagers. Mine are 12 and 15, and I personally think that’s the perfect age. In fact, my daughter now has a goal to move to Japan for a year after graduating from college, in order to work as an English teacher via special program. Hmm, I feel like I have opened a can of worms…
You can see all the details on how I used miles for our award flights in this post
Challenges and fails we have encountered along the way
I like to keep things real on this blog, so before I get into the good stuff, let me list things that didn’t go as planned. You may remember our plan to switch my teenager and MIL, so the latter would have a business-class seat on Los Angeles-Osaka flight. Well, we were all settled in when the flight attendant approached my MIL and asked her to do a walk of shame back to economy section. Apparently, switching seats is against JAL policy even if you paid for both of them. The flight attendant was very apologetic and it was clear she felt bad for having to enforce the rules.
I told her it wasn’t her fault and that I’m the one who messed up. My MIL was a good sport about the whole thing, but it did start the trip on a somewhat sour note. Speaking of business-class seats, while they were obviously more comfortable than sitting in economy, it wasn’t a game changer I hoped it would be. Normally, my husband can sleep anywhere, but he felt like he was stuck in a coffin on JAL. As a result, he got no sleep whatsoever. I got maybe an hour on a 12.5 hour flight. The food on the flight was ok, but nothing to alter your plans over.
Ironically, one person who absolutely loved the flight was the one I figured would benefit from it the least: my 12-year old son. He enjoyed every moment, and was sad when we landed in Osaka.
Of course, when I was able to upgrade our Tokyo-Seattle flight on Delta to premium economy (using miles), he was disappointed. Apparently, it’s now lie-flat seat or bust. That made my husband question if we are spoiling our kids. Umm, you think?
At some point I’ll have a detailed post with my thoughts on how those two options compare. But the bottom line is, try to have realistic expectations when it comes to your airplane seat. No matter how much it’s hyped up on the blogs, you are still flying in a metal tube full of strangers. There may be snoring and a baby crying, and you will likely be exhausted when you land. Oh, and lie-flat seat is not a cure for a brutal jetlag. Ask me how I know.
Something I was really looking forward to is checking out small local restaurants with my husband. Unfortunately, his stomach couldn’t handle Asian cuisine for a good portion of the trip. Before we left, he excitedly talked about trying all kinds of foods at local markets, yet we ended up mostly looking for McDonald’s and using UberEats to order KFC to our machiya in Kyoto. Since my son and MIL hate Asian food, they were quite happy. I’m not crazy about eating out alone, so I usually ended up joining in. At least I got to try a bunch of weird snacks from 7/11.
I also really wanted to try okonomiyaki, a local Hiroshima dish, so ended up ordering it via room service. Hey, something is better than nothing.
I knew that rainy weather was a strong possibility at the end of May. What I didn’t expect was typhoon Mawar that ended up skirting Japan while we were there. The result was many rainy days with some wind.
Last but not least, traveling with kids and MIL had its challenges. The kids constantly bickered and drove my husband crazy. At one point he said he regretted taking them with us. I got into it with my MIL because she wouldn’t let me help carry her stuff. And boy, did she bring a lot of stuff! I asked her to pack light, and she said she did. Guess which suitcase belongs to her. 
And she also ended up bringing a collapsible bag for souvenirs. That was a lot of fun lugging this monster on to the bullet train. Not.
Anyway, the biggest issue is that she should not be lifting heavy stuff after having two surgeries on her shoulders. But when I tried to help, she complained that we are treating her like a child and was almost in tears a few times. We also tried to arrange a wheelchair for her at the airports, but she absolutely refused. It is heartbreaking to see her physically deteriorate due to age. She was always the one everyone relied on.
Despite all of that, I feel like this trip was a tremendous success. No one got sick, and we simply took umbrellas when going out. And after awhile, I was looking forward to my shrimp/fish sandwich from McDonald’s, the only thing on the menu that was mildly appealing to me.
I bit my tongue more than once when I felt my MIL was being unreasonable, though sadly, not enough. In travel, as in life, the ability to pivot is a must.
My favorite memories
On to the good stuff, and there were so many. I was absolutely giddy when we entered out machiya (120-year-old restored house in Kyoto). At $270 per night, this was my biggest lodging splurge on the trip and it didn’t disappoint. It was the perfect way to immerse ourselves in the old Japan.
Taking a hot bath in an onsen was a treat, and something I took advantage of several times per day:
Another memory I treasure is visiting Miyajima island, a short ferry ride from Hiroshima. It’s a special place that is considered one of top three sights in Japan.
I would love to come back one day and spend a few nights on the island, so we could have it to ourselves in the morning and evening hours.
I wish my late FIL could have been there with us, as he would certainly appreciate the grilled oysters, a local delicacy. I made sure to eat one for me and one for him. And I don’t even normally eat oysters. But when in Miyajima…
Speaking of nearby Hiroshima, we had an amazing encounter with a local 75-year-old man that I haven’t stopped thinking about. My husband and I were sitting on a bench near Atomic Dome, and he was walking his dogs nearby. I pointed to them and said “kawaii”, which means cute in Japanese.
That prompted a conversation. BTW, very few people in Japan speak English, and this guy was a rare exception. Anyway, he said that his parents left Hiroshima for the hills in early 1945 just to be on the safe side. I asked if they lost any relatives in the nuclear blast. He paused for a second, then looked at me and said one word: “Everyone.” He grew up without grandparents, aunts, uncles or cousins. Not much I can add here.
Of course, I was thrilled to get a clear view of iconic mount Fuji in Oshino Hakkai village:
And while driving to Hakone:
This may sound silly, but taking my kids to a pug cafe in Kyoto is also one of my favorite memories of the trip. It was probably the dumbest $110 I’ve ever spent (admission for 5 people), but I would totally do it again in a heartbeat.
Seeing my kids laugh giddily while interacting with these silly creatures was something else. The pugs are well taken care of, and appear to love the attention. One settled in on my lap and made grunting/purring noises while I was petting him. Ok, so it wasn’t just for the kids.
On the very last day of the trip my husband said he finally felt like having some sushi, so we went to a local village joint run by a super sweet old couple (they agreed to let me take their photo). 
What a treat it was. Now if I can just learn how to use chopsticks properly.
But my top memory was our geisha experience in Kyoto. Well, technically she was a maiko (the apprentice) because hiring her was cheaper. I mostly booked it for my MIL because I knew she would love it. And she did. We got to watch a tea-making ceremony, learn about geisha culture and see a dance performance. Truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
At the end of the trip my MIL confessed that she didn’t really want to go to Japan. She only did it because my late FIL was looking forward to it, but never got the chance. So, this was her way to honor his memory. But she said to her surprise, she ended up loving the trip. So, this is probably the biggest compliment I could ever hope for. I’m so glad that my kids will always have amazing memories of visiting Japan with their grandma.
Final thoughts
This trip was cancelled and rebooked three times due to Covid, and I was seriously wondering if it would ever actually happen. But it was totally worth the wait. Japan has exceeded my already high expectations. It’s unlike any other country I’ve been to. It’s not an easy destination per se, and I don’t recommend winging it. Careful research and planning is required, and it can feel overwhelming at times. But I hope it doesn’t stop you from visiting this amazing country with your kids.
I plan to do a series of posts that will hopefully make the task easier for you. We did this trip on a middle-class budget, which should make it more relatable to those who don’t make over six figures each year. As I’ve said earlier, the most we paid for lodging was $270 per night, and we spent just $95 per night/per room on a perfectly decent hotel in Tokyo. The rest was covered via hotel points.
Was the trip free? No way. I wouldn’t even call it cheap. For example, due to my MIL’s limited mobility, we spent a fortune on taxis and transfers, and I don’t regret it for a second. And don’t get me started on souvenirs. But miles and points offset a good portion of the expenses, and made this whole thing attainable to begin with.
Sayonara for now.
Author: Leana
Leana is the founder of Miles For Family. She enjoys beach vacations and visiting her family in Europe. Originally from Belarus, Leana resides in central Florida with her husband and two children.
“I was captivated by your travel narrative, especially the part where you encountered Unique Experience. Your storytelling transported me to that moment, and I could almost feel the excitement. Can’t wait to read more about your adventures!”
Good storytelling!
Traveled in Japan once but want to go back again. Like you mentioned it’s a different feel and experience altogether.
Liked the Jal business seats, slept well. 😴
Hotels were very good and provided healthy breakfast, other local foods I have enjoyed as well. Kyoto was most memorable place, so is Kobe and Himedji castle 🏰
Spent only 3 hrs in Tokyo, will see more of it next time.
Advise for all: take it slow and immersive, then you’ll have wonderful time almost anywhere in Japan.
Happy travels!
PS: Visited in mid-end of May and weather was perfect, the 1 rainy day we spent at onsen.
@Aleks Thanks for reading! Definitely good advice on making it an immersive experience rather than trying to cram in too much. I made an effort to do that, with mixed success. We spent 11 nights in Japan, and everyone was exhausted by the end of it. Then again, we may never go back as a family, and I didn’t want to have any regrets. Tokyo was probably my least favorite city. I had very low expectations for Hiroshima, but ended up liking it quite a bit. Very underrated destination. In fact, I would have skipped it if it wasn’t for my husband.
Very insightful. Thanks for sharing. Has your family been to Asia much as points of comparison?
@Christian Thanks for reading! Actually, it was our first time in Asia. Now I really want to see more, like Thailand and maybe Vietnam. But I’m not sure I can convince my husband. That jetlag was/is brutal. Perhaps we can do a trip around the world someday, moving slowly from place to place.
Thanks for sharing. Reading your experience makes me want to finally pull the trigger on visiting. You’re probably one of the very few who actually keeps it real and why I appreciate your point of view.
I’ve intentionally avoided Japan as I’ve been in this hobby for quite a while and I’ve come to find that most of the time when bloggers or folks in this hobby hype something up as being great, it usually sucks.
I’m probably in the minority when I say that I think Hawaii is overrated and if I never go back to Paris, it’s too soon. Lie flat seats are certainly better than economy but I’ve flown several times in lie flat seats, and I think they are overrated.
Folks in this hobby would lead those who haven’t experienced such that lie flat seats are like floating on a cloud…and it’s not, not even close. In my experience, lie flat seats are no sleep number…heck, most aren’t even a Serta. Again, better than economy, but completely overhyped in my opinion.
I may finally give Japan a try and you painted a picture that most don’t. You hit the highs and lows and I appreciate it.
Thanks again for sharing your experience.
@ 2808 Heavy Appreciate your thoughts. I do try to be as honest and transparent as possible. It’s the least I can do, since some folks who read this blog may only be able to afford one decent trip per year. It’s a fine line, as I don’t want to come across as a negative Nancy ( no relation to my blogging partner). Ultimately, it comes down to my personal preferences, which may or may not match what you or someone else likes. I really did love Japan, and not just because it was such a difficult road to finally get there. It’s the kind of place I wouldn’t mind visiting multiple times, even if I had to fly economy. I hope to return at least once at some point in the future, but I’m beyond grateful that I got to see it at all.
Great write-up as always, Leana! I’m looking forward to my first trip to Japan in April, and now I’m even more excited.
@bc Thanks. Japan should be beautiful in April! I actually would have preferred to visit in spring or November (to see fall colors), but we are unfortunately tied to school schedule.
Glad this could finally happen for you and your family! Thanks for a great write-up.
Heading to Hilton Head soon with my family (new to us) and there will be bickering! Part of traveling with more than one person, I think.
Also jumped on a Southwest fare sale for this fall. Might as well, right? Phoenix.
@Kacie Hilton Head sounds nice! I’ve never been either. Hope you guys enjoy it.
Yes, bickering is part of the deal when traveling with family. But I honestly wouldn’t change a thing. Though I am a proponent of occasional getaways with just your spouse. We started doing it more as the kids got older, and I totally recommend it.
Very interesting, thanks! I’ll also go to Japan, for the first time, in a few weeks. And with a 15-Year old in tow.
I’m very much looking forward to flying JAL in business class, since I’ve flown them before and it was exceptional. I’m not sure what type of seats you had, but both this time and previously I’ll be seated in something called Sky Suite. These are comparable to first class, really really comfortable.
@Ivan You will love Japan and so will your teenager! We sure did. We flew in a Sky Suite III on LAX-KIX flight, here is the link to specs https://www.jal.co.jp/jp/en/inter/service/business/seat/skysuite3.html
Not sure if that’s the one you’ve experienced, as there are several configurations. Don’t get me wrong, I would totally book it again, as it’s a good use of AA miles. But there is a lack of storage and seats are kind of narrow, so you feel confined. It’s worse for big guys, and my husband is one of them.
This one actually: https://www.jal.co.jp/jp/en/inter/service/business/seat/skysuite.html
Very different from the coffin-like seat designs.I don’t like those either.
Yeah, that type of seat looks much better.
Leana,
I was looking forward to read your post. I am half Japanese (my family immigrated from Etajima to Brazil in 1920) and it is my dream to go to Japan. My son is 10 and I am waiting a little. Your post reassure me I should wait until he is older. I love it you kept real about the food, the plane and the family dynamics.
Also my miles and points game is very weak lately due some personal financial issues, but in 2 years things are going to get better and I can apply for cards again. The good thing is I am going to be able to apply for several cards again 🙂
I can’t wait to read about premium economy x business class.
@Tania I had no idea you are half Japanese! That’s so neat. Yes, you should definitely go at some point. I hear you on financial constraints, and few years is not that long in the grand scheme of things. Plus, as long as you stick to public transportation, Japan can be quite affordable. I am planning to write a post on our transpacific flights within a week or two, so keep an eye on it. The gist of it is that JAL business class is a bit overrated IMO, though obviously better than regular economy. Delta premium economy (called Premium Select) is pretty good if you can get it at a reasonable rate. I got an offer to pay 12.5k Delta miles per person during our online check in, and decided to splurge. A game changer? Hardly. But I have no regrets. If you still live in NYC, my advice is to book a nonstop flight to Tokyo even if it’s in economy. Assuming you can handle it physically. To me it’s preferable to booking an extra positioning flight in order to fly business class from another airport. But that’s just me. I’m sure many will disagree.
Great report Leana! Love all the details and honest opinions. Sharing the realities of travel is very valuable – unlike all the other bloggers who just share the highlights and don’t share the low lights that virtually all trips have.
I travel extensively in both Asia and Europe and have been pleasantly surprised and also disappointed with the different places I have been to. The disappointments have usually always been due to the hype by others (whether deliberate or not).
I have flown SFO – Tokyo on JAL Premium Economy twice, Business Class twice, and First Class once. Both Business Class and First Class in my opinion were both over rated. The Business Class seats are narrow and cramped (coffin like) – I way prefer Singapore Airlines, Cathay Pacific, EVA Air etc. First Class was nice, but I didn’t get what the big deal was. The seats are old, the food is not bad, the service is good, and the lounge is mediocre. Singapore Airlines First Class is way superior in my opinion. Their Premium Economy on the other hand is pretty good in my opinion and I don’t mind flying it if I can’t get a Business Class seat. Except the food in PE on my last flight was nasty and I think I will bring my own food to eat the next time I fly JAL Premium Economy.
Compared to US carriers, yes I think JAL is way better than any airline the US has, but compared to its Asian rivals I think it is in the middle of the pack.
I fly to Japan on JAL because of the convenience.
@Jason Thanks for stopping by! I don’t fly business class often (as in almost never). So I don’t have many other points of reference. Would I fly JAL again in business? Absolutely, for the right price via miles and if the schedule suited us. I wanted to start in Kyoto for various reasons, and flying to Osaka made the most sense. So it’s not like I had many options, other than United from SFO. Plus, we don’t have nonstop flights from Florida to Japan anyway. Burning AA miles seemed logical, and I don’t regret it. But I wouldn’t call it a no-brainer, as some may need to save their AA currency to visit family etc. Ive seen JAL business class described as a luxurious experience on many trip reports, and I firmly believe it’s overrated. But it sure beats economy, which is the bottom line.
I am in NYC so there so many direct flights option from JFK and EWR. Obviously business class is preferred but I can handle 15 hours in couch. My plan is to go in 2026. So I have time to save miles/money and my son will be 13. I am loving the travel reports.
@Tania Spending 15 hours in coach is brutal, but it’s not the end of the world. I do think you should aim for business class if at all possible. Just be flexible on dates, though I know it’s easier said than done with school schedule. Another possibility is adding Hawaii stopover into the mix. I sure hope you guys pull it off. P.S. Hope you enjoyed my Tokyo installment I just published today.
thanks for this great write up. You always keep it real.
@harv Thanks! I try to. I’m not actually a negative person in real life. I hope? It’s all about having realistic expectations, which is a key to avoiding disappointment.
Leana, I enjoy reading your thoughts on travel because I enjoy travel as much as you, but the real reason that I enjoy travel is because I get time that I can spend uninterrupted with my family. When at home, there is always something else going where someone is missing, but when you are on vacation, you can get everyone together for most of the day. I’m glad that you were finally able to make your family memories in Japan.
@Arkansas Traveler Thank you! Yeah, there is no cure for the travel bug. Im hopelessly addicted. My husband is not into it like I am, but he has been a good sport over the years. And yes, I agree that travel forces you to focus on your family, and that’s a real gift.
Fun article. Liked reading what your husband said about wishing the kids weren’t there. I think I mutter that at some point on every family trip. Also good to remember trips never go exactly the way you want but you can still love it if you learn to roll with the punches.
@Christopher Thanks for reading! Yeah, it can be a challenge at times. I know it’s not something I’m supposed to say, since I’m technically blogging about the “joys” of family travel. It is annoying and frustrating when the kids misbehave and throw tantrums, especially when you are exhausted from the jet lag. That said, there is no way I could leave the kids at home and jet off to Japan with just my husband. And he agreed. We try to put the fun in dysfunction!
First the kids then the MIL. Not really relevant.